Elephant and Castle is never going to win a beauty contest, neither is it the first place you’d think of for top-notch Thai food or a cool, cosy bar. Thank goodness, then, for Lye Torng, which has provided discerning locals with both, at bargain prices, since 2000.

The Venue
Lye Torng is located on the non-descript, one-way St Georges Road, a short walk from the centre of Elephant and Castle, a part of south London which stubbornly refuses to come up. Step inside, and the area’s thundering traffic and unlovely architecture suddenly seem miles away. There’s a pool table; comfy sofas; retro tables and chairs; a colour scheme of rich, vibrant red and green with exposed brick; well-judged subdued lighting. A pair of stone Buddhas and their smaller, wooden cousin inject a Thai note, as do colourful, crushed seashell chandeliers, and dangling plastic flowers. It ought to be a naff mishmash but somehow it’s effortlessly cool.

The Atmosphere
Being slightly out of the Elephant and Castle’s centre, Lye Torng benefits little from passing trade. Nonetheless, even on a freezing night early in the week, there’s a decent showing of locals, most of whom lounge and drink whilst a handful dine. The vibe is cool but friendly, animated but civilised. The staff are equally relaxed but on the ball. Even the background R&B and jazz avoids the usual overplayed tracks.

The Food
Huge menus seldom mean great food, so the heart sinks at page after page of starters, soups, salads, items from the grill, sizzling plates, chef’s specialities, stir fries, curries and fish before you even get to vegetable and carb accompaniments. What’s more, many options come with a choice of sauces so the permutations are practically endless. A generous bowl of crisp prawn crackers (£1.50) provides the stamina to wade through it all.

Crispy tofu (£3.50) is pleasingly crunchy without and squidgy within. Its peanut sauce is pleasant but tame and not very nutty. Meanwhile, tempura squid (£3.95) – calamari by another name – is spot-on, the squid skilfully walking the line between tender and chewy, the batter impeccably light and grease-free. Like the tofu, it’s a hefty portion. Again, the accompanying sauce – sweet chilli – is the only slight let-down, needing a good kick of heat.

From the mindbogglingly wide choice of mains, pork stir fry at a giveaway £4.95 is a big bowl of honest, Thai homecooking in which finely sliced carrots, onions and peppers join tender strips of meat in a sauce redolent of lemongrass, ginger and coriander. Mixed seafood from the sizzling plates section (£8.50) comprises perfectly cooked prawns, scallops, squid and mussels on the shell. Such are the skills of the kitchen, their delicate flavours are not swamped by a sauce of sweetness, soy saltiness and a fearless chilli kick. Noodles (£2.50) and steamed rice (£1.95) are beyond reproach.

From a comparatively restrained dessert list of eight choices, lychees and ice cream (£3.50) makes a simple, light ending to the meal. The vanilla ice cream is fine, and the half dozen lychees taste fresh, not tinned. More spectacular is a light, crisp, not too sweet pineapple fritter, again with vanilla ice cream, and a drizzle of caramel sauce (£3.50).

The Drink
The global wine list includes 10 whites, 10 reds, two roses, two sparklers and one dessert. Commendably, there’s a huge selection by the 175 or 250ml glass including all but two of the whites! A bottle of house white or red is a hangover-encouraging £9.95, and nothing breaks the £20 barrier except for Moet & Chandon at a very fair £35.95.

South African Chenin Blanc (£2.95/£4.20/£11.50) is a full-flavoured bargain whilst a Muscat Viognier from France (£3.10/£4.30/£11.95) is deliciously complex and perfumed. Californian Merlot (£3.50/£4.95/£12.95) is a soft and plummy delight whilst a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon (£3.50/£5/£13.50) bursts with rich blackcurrants.

Eight beers on tap range from London Pride (£1.60 per half pint, £3.10 a pint) to Grolsch Blond (£1.60/£3) to Guinness (£1.60/£3.10), and there’s Strongbow Cider (£1.50/£2.80). Ten bottled beers and ciders include Bulmers Pear Pint (£3.60) and Chang Thai (£3) and Singha Thai (£3.10) to match the food.

Drivers and teetotallers are unusually well served with 14 fruit juice options including tempting combinations like blood orange and lime (£1.90) or orange, carrot and lemon (£1.50). The hot drinks selection is limited to fresh ground coffee (£1.50) and English, green and jasmine teas (all £1.25). Still or sparkling water is £1.30 per small bottle, £2.80 for a large, and there’s the range of spirits you would expect in a well-stocked bar.

The Last Word
How grateful the trickle of middle-class colonisers and local trendies must be for Lye Torng. Whether they fancy pool with a couple of pints, a night of quaffing well-kept, well-chosen wines, or a slap-up Thai feast, this vibey hiding place from the grim reality of the surrounding area is a godsend. And, when three, big-hearted, big-flavoured, big-portioned courses with wine will set you back a trifling £20 a head, it’s a little corner of South London non-locals should search out, too.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (2) image gallery (2)