Food fads come and go and so, sadly, do far too many London restaurants. The key to longevity is surely consistency, both of style and quality. This nine-year-old Kew fixture has it sussed: it serves soundly executed French classics at fair prices in a pleasant ambience, so it’s little wonder the well-heeled locals keep coming back for more.

The Venue
The high, arched ceiling, squarish room and red colour scheme nod winningly to the venue’s former life of postal orders and parcels. Other than that, it’s all oh so French - think chequerboard floor tiles, red and white chequered table clothes with white paper covers, red banquettes and French posters on the warm, pale brown walls. Forty-five can dine inside and there are tables for another 20 out front; Station Approach is a leafy run of attractive shops with little traffic and no undesirables hanging about, so pavement dining would be a pleasure.

The Atmosphere
Nicely judged, subdued lighting from Tiffany-style lamps flatters the clientele of well-behaved, middle-aged, middle-class locals. Service is relaxed but perfectly paced and assured.

The Food
French classics like coq au vin, steak au poivre, cassoulet and onion soup abound. The fact that only one main course out of twenty four is suitable for vegetarians also seems terribly French.

Dorset crab (£6.50) is a perfect, fresh, clean and pretty appetiser. A disc of white meat, containing only one stray piece of cartilage, is deliciously bound in mayo that refuses to overpower. The accompanying avocado is perfectly ripe, the pink grapefruit segments provide juicy acidity, and a topping of micro leaves provides a modern touch.

Almost as good and in complete contrast, the zarzuela (£6.50) is a Basque stew of seafood (scallop, prawns, squid and shell-on mussels) and chorizo in a saffron-tomato sauce. The sausage is surprisingly lacking in spiciness, and there’s (perhaps advisedly) little evidence of saffron, but it’s still a winning bowlful of fresh-as-a-daisy seafood in a delicious tomato sauce. The size of both starters is spot on, too.

Asking for fillet steak au poivre (£22) cooked medium raises no Gallic eyebrows. It arrives accurately cooked and meltingly tender with good, meaty jus and tiny mushrooms strategically arranged for a 21st century presentation. The fletan (£16.50) is perhaps even better; a tender, snowy white halibut steak in an impressive red wine sauce with thin slices of browned, crisp salsify and a bed of robust spinach.

Included in the price are sides of French beans, broccoli and courgettes (which could have been cooked just half a minute less); roast potatoes in the continental style (halved, new potatoes in their skins; very nice as long as you aren’t expecting Granny’s crisp, fluffy triumphs); and a creamy, soft pot of dauphinoise with irresistible, crunchy, cheesy top.

Puddings (all £4.95 apart from cheeses at £6.95) don’t match up to the savouries. The ice cream selection is that tired old trinity of chocolate, strawberry and vanilla and has the mass-produced flavour of the blocks of Neapolitan from '70s. A raspberry millefeuille features crisp pastry and quality berries but just isn’t sweet enough.

The Drink
The almost entirely French list includes two Champagnes, seventeen whites, nineteen reds and a trio of roses. Entry level is a very reasonable £12.50, nothing breaks the £50 barrier, and a commendable proportion is available by the 175ml glass.

Alex Navarra, Garnacha is a dry and slightly spicy rose with strawberry notes which would get a summer evening off to the jolliest of starts. L’Empreinte Merlot vin de pays d’Oc 2005 (£4.50/£17) is as smooth, rich and mellow as one would hope.

The Last Word
Ma Cuisine is everything a neighbourhood restaurant should be. The presentation of its delicious French classics has been modernised just enough to meet the expectations of a 21st century, British audience. Service is sound and friendly, and the wines are fairly priced. Expect to pay £40 a head for three courses and half a bottle of modest wine - a sensible price for a meal this good.

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