Offering subtle, superior Indian cooking with a Kenyan twist at fair prices, it’s no wonder Southall’s destination restaurant still pulls in the punters after more than a quarter of a century.

The Venue
Located amid the Asian supermarkets, sari shops and less distinguished curry houses of Southall’s bustling Indian sub-continental South Road, Madhus is a two-storey restaurant with picture windows and spiral staircase, decorated in the safe, generic modern style of dark wood, glass and metal. The chairs are high-backed black leather with banquettes down one side of the room, whilst the beige walls are adorned with mirrors and unthreatening abstract art. Of flock wall paper, there is not a trace: only the background music takes you back to your first post-pub curry 30 years ago.

The Atmosphere
Even on a weeknight at 8 o’clock, most tables are occupied, mainly (and reassuringly) but not exclusively, by Asians: this place is a good few rungs up the culinary ladder from those joints that remain depressingly empty until it’s time to dole out the tikka masala to the late-night lager louts. Service is friendly and attentive and the mood, despite the urban apartment show home decor, relaxed: birthdays are marked by the arrival of cakes with candles plus endearingly tuneless choruses of ‘Happy Birthday to You’ from the staff.

The Food
Crisp, grease-free poppadoms with well above-average mint, mango and tomato dips set the standard for what is to come. Cooking is resolutely north Indian but, amid usual suspects like onion bhajias, meat or vegetable samosas and chicken tikka lurk more intriguing starters which betray the Kenyan origins of Punjabi couple Sanjay and Sanjeev Anand who created Madhus over 25 years ago. Most are offered in portions for two or three people to encourage sharing, and single portions are available on request.

Nyamah Choma (£9 for two) is, says the menu, a traditional African Masai warrior dish of spare ribs made on open fires in Masai Mara. Crikey! Pork, however, is not about to make a rare Indian restaurant appearance: The restaurant uses lamb ribs, marinated in chilli and lemon and char grilled in the tandoor – so, not that much like the traditional Masai dish after all, perhaps! But who cares about authenticity when meat is this succulent and flavoursome, and not overwhelmed by a marinade which ends in a subtle chilli punch? The Masala Fried Tilapia (£9 for two) is specially flown in from Lake Victoria. Its carbon footprint may be heavy, but the pieces of battered, fried fish are light and crisp. Again, intelligent spicing brings a rounded heat to the end of each mouthful. Also of Kenyan origin, Pilli Pilli Boga (£7 for two) is a selection of battered, deep-fried vegetables reminiscent of tempura. The cauliflower, mushrooms and peppers are agreeably al dente, the aubergine moreishly squidgy.

Onto the mains. Tilapia reappears with, says the menu, their unique masala sauce (£10). As with all the dishes sampled, the flavour of the main ingredient is allowed to shine through, the rich, smooth, dark sauce with its subtle heat providing just the right degree of support. The menu’s assertion that this dish is cooked with great care might raise a smile, but it’s certainly true. Boozi Bafu (£18 for three) is lamb chops in an onion and tomato sauce. Again, the spicing is assured and sophisticated, and the meat of the highest quality. Machuzi Kuku (£18 for three) is another Kenyan delight; chicken pieces in a fragrant gravy of which coriander is the most upfront contributor. A generous portion of Saag Aloo (£6) is the only disappointment, both the new potatoes and spinach would benefit from less cooking. Perfect pilau rice is adorned with delicious bits of fried onion, and peshwari nan is satisfyingly packed with coconut and sultanas.

Far too many Indian restaurants can’t really be bothered with puddings but at Madhus, you get a choice of seven. There’s Haagen Dazs ice cream (£3.50) for the faint-hearted or Madhus Trio Platter of chocolate truffle mousse, tropical fruit tartlet and lemon saffron cheesecake (£5.50) for those who feel the need to whiz over to France for a few minutes. Far better, surely, to opt for almond kulfi (£4) which is rich and smooth, and not too sweet, with yummy little nutty bits. Kheer (£3.50) is equally rich chilled rice pudding, lemony, fragrant and with agreeable slivers of dried coconut.

The Drink
When did you last patronise a stylish restaurant serving acclaimed food which offered both white and red wines at under a tenner? Perhaps rents and rates are lower way out west in the Borough of Ealing, but the restaurant boasts Bordeaux Blanc or Claret, Vincent Baron (Bordeaux) at £9, or £3 a glass. None of the other dozen whites exceeds £16 except for Puligny Montrachet (Burgundy) at £40. The pricing of the 15 reds is more staggered but again a Burgundy, Gevery Chambertin, tops the list at £40. If you fancy a drop of both fizz and authenticity, try Omar Khayyam Indian sparkling wine at a modest £16 (£4 a glass). House champagne (Autreau Roualet) is £24/£6, Dom Perignon top of the shop at £100.

Draught Carlsberg and Cobra are £3.50 a pint, £2 a ½-half pint. There are six bottled beers at £3 or £3.50 including the unusual and appropriate Kenyan variety, Tusker. An unusually extensive cocktail list, and spirits, liqueurs and soft drinks complete the liquid options. Few Indian restaurants can rustle up a decent cup of coffee, and whilst the brew on offer at Madhus is better than many it would still be laughed out of any American diner.

The Last Word
Anyone who thinks they’ve been-there-done-that as far as Indian food is concerned will rediscover their enthusiasm at Madhus. The Kenyan dishes really are different, with a tantalisingly smoky edge. The meat, fish and vegetables are never swamped by heavy sauces, as is often the case in lesser establishments. Instead, the complex, restrained spicing lets the top-quality main ingredients shine through. Take a trip to vibrant Southall and understand why the Anand family’s venture continues to delight diners and critics alike.

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