Good things come in threes, so it comes as no surprise to learn that the dynamic team of chefs behind Magdalen are husband and wife duo James and Emma Faulks, accompanied by David Abbott. They bring with them a medley of experience from the Fat Duck, Anchor & Hope, the Mandarin Oriental and Le Manoir. This modern British restaurant, set in the suburbia by London Bridge was apparently cooked up while they all worked together at another famed venue - La Trompette.

The Venue
Magdalen sits inconspicuously in the hub of London Bridge’s growing apartment, bar and restaurant scene. Flooded with natural light from the views spanning across Tooley Street, it straddles both floors of a corner building. The décor is tasteful and powerfully understated - adorned with rich mulberry walls and dark wood furnishings that give a warm, stylish and clean-cut feel. A mix of British and French influences are reflected in the Bistro style furniture and white tablecloths, and the bar is a prominent feature as you enter, providing a great space for a pre-dinner aperitif (the peach fizz is a good choice).

The Atmosphere
The atmosphere is certainly romantic, with a sedate and tranquil sophistication that's helped by staff who are friendly and eager to please, providing attentive yet unobtrusive service. Ask a question and you’ll soon find out that they have a good understanding of the ever changing menu. City-type couples taking time out from the markets for a little courtship sit alongside smaller groups of friends - it’s a popular choice so expect rather closely packed tables which create a suitably intimate atmosphere. If you’re looking to create a little extra romance, ask for one of the window tables downstairs or the corner table upstairs, which afford more privacy.

The Food
The menu is an eclectic mix of meaty British cuisine and good seafood options. If you’ve visited the Anchor & Hope you may feel a little of the underlying influence has carried through – which is no bad thing. Focused on good, honest cooking that showcases traditional British ingredients, the selection is imaginative and good value.

The understated choice of starters includes a very good Devon crab salad with pea-shoots and spinach (£9.50). The healthy sized portion of fine white crab is fresh and succulent with an aroma of lemon and herbs. Delivered live to the restaurant twice a week, who needs to be beside the sea? The fried squid with tartare sauce (£8.50) is insanely good – succulent and tender chunks of squid literally dissolve in the mouth, dressed in barely-there light and airy batter.

You can also expect to see rare delights on offer, like the poached wild salmon (£18.50); it's only in season for four weeks of the year. Served with samphire, leeks and a butter sauce, it's an extremely light and delicate dish with smooth and subtle hints of lemon and butter - it falls apart at the slightest stroke of the knife. The marrying of fried potatoes and spring greens complement the fish beautifully.

Slow-roasted chicken (£16), grilled quails (£17.50), braised veal breast (£17) and confit duck leg (£16) give more than enough choice for the carnivorous diner. No fancy experiments risk losing the simple workings of the roast Middle White (a breed of pig) dish with borlotti beans and roast fennel (£17.50). Together they deliver a meaty feast of slender, juicy loin cuts with a delightful trimming of crackling. The side of boiled potatoes make an excellent partner for the meat, creamy and soft like mouthfuls of edible cloud.

When it comes to dessert the options are delightfully British. The peach and almond tart tastes fresh from the oven - a masterful blend of moist body with a crisp, biscuity base. Matching it with a yoghurt ice-cream is spot on too. Chocolate lovers are well taken care of - with a selection of salted caramel chocolates as well as the chocolate pot with pistachios and stalked cherries which delivers a smooth mouse-like consistency of rich dark chocolate.

The Drinks
The range of refined menu combinations on offer requires a wine list befitting such sophistication. Not only does it manage to achieve this with prices starting at £18, but with a balance of lighter whites and more robust reds the wine buffs would be hard pressed to complain. The Ricaud is a popular choice from France - a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, with a little Muscadelle for aromatic complexity, this wine (£28) offers intensely fresh, perfumed aromas.

The Last Word
You don't come to Magdalen to see and be seen - you come for the first-class food. With such a glowing combination of culinary CVs you know you’re getting something special, and instead of a smokescreen of glitz and glamour, the effort is on the food. And it appears worth every bit of it.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (2) image gallery (4)