37 St Johns Wood High Street,
London,
NW8 7NJ
0872 148 2565
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.
The ViewLondon Review
For delicate dishes, cakes and teas in a chic setting, try the St John’s Wood branch of Raymond Blanc’s signature boulangerie and patisserie.
The Venue
Pitched to exactly the right market, this Maison Blanc shop takes pride of place on St John’s Wood High Street. Parisian tables and chairs are spread across the outside pavement, giving a touch of continental class. These are sheltered by a beige canopy with ‘Maison Blanc’ scrawled in precise italics. Fancy little cakes and pastries line the window, held in a display case that spreads invitingly along one side of the café. Along the other wall are shelves stocked with cookery books by the master himself, as well as authentic conserves, cordials and pâtés.
The café opens out slightly onto a petite seating area where rich turquoise walls brighten things up. Pine table and chairs make for a minimal décor, and a fawn colour banquette takes up one corner of the café for a comfy alternative. Photographic prints on the walls show scenic shots and old-fashioned bicycles, heightening the twee, tearoom feel.
The Atmosphere
Adding to the Parisian vibe are the traditional chansons that echo in the background. French waiting staff eagerly serve you and are suitably dressed for the occasion in smart uniform. They take pride in offering recommendations from the menu, and have clearly taken the café’s ethos of pampering its guests to heart. Maison Blanc fills up during the lunchtime rush, and accommodates an older clientele for afternoon tea.
The Food
Despite its upmarket setting, this branch of Maison Blanc delivers delicious food at a reasonable rate. Artisan breads and handmade cakes are the driving force here, and the menu shows off these freshly baked breads within a wide selection of sandwiches, baguettes and ciabattas. Scottish smoked salmon tartine (£6.40) places generous, fleshy cuts of fish on a pain maison open sandwich. It's given a touch of finesse with a red basil leaf garnish.
A roast asparagus tart (£5.95) is a shining example of perfectly crisp and buttery pastry, with a cheesy base and asparagus strewn on top. And salads are fresh and appetising, like the prosciutto, fig and pomegranate salad (£8.25), which is succulent with mozzarella and avocado too, with all its flavours brought together by a sweet, honey mustard dressing.
The star of the show, however, is dessert, with sumptuous cakes and pastries that taste just as good as they look. The concerto (£4.25) is a favourite here, its several layers of rich chocolate sponge and mousse giving way to crunchy praline. Frasier (£4.55) is the perfect light, summer dessert, with strawberries lining the perimeter and the centre combining vanilla sponge, fresh whipped cream and a white chocolate glaze.
Just as refreshing is the wild strawberry and pomegranate summer jelly (£4.25), which has a sponge base with white chocolate pannacotta and a sweet jelly filled with elderflower, strawberry and juicy pomegranate seeds all beautifully balanced on top. A final summer dessert on offer is the fig daquoise (£4.30), which has a gooey texture courtesy of an almond meringue topped with caramel cream and poached figs.
The Drink
A trip to Maison Blanc wouldn't be complete without a pot of tea or a fresh Fairtrade coffee. A good spread of teas is laid on, including English breakfast, jasmine silver needle white tea, Darjeeling and bohea lapsang, all at £2.15 a pot. Espresso (£1.90) and cappuccino (£2.35) are standard fare, but for continuing that trend of self-indulgence, café crème (£2.45) is a fine choice. For something a bit stronger, a few bottles of wine are available, surprisingly not just from French vineyards. The house chardonnay (£4.25), Fotant de France, is a fruity and easy-to-drink drop of plonk, and there are wines available in half bottles too, like the Don Jacobo rioja (£11.95). Bottles of Kronenbourg (£2.95) are also available to wash down a light lunch, but wholesome drinks are where the emphasis lies, with elderflower presse (£2.50) and pressed apple juice (£2.60) helping plump out an impressive soft drink list.
The Last Word
Maison Blanc hits its stride in St John’s Wood, where it combines artisan breads and delectable sweets with a café menu that champions fresh and flavoursome produce – all very fitting in such swish surroundings. And yet, refreshingly, Maison Blanc delivers these delicacies for a pretty reasonable penny.
Maison Blanc has been reviewed by 2 users