And then there were six! Bayswater is the latest part of London to acquire a branch of this bargain, casual, modern Indian chain which promises not to serve stereotypical curry house fare and generally delivers.

The Venue
This newcomer faces stiff, established competition, as it’s situated just a few steps from the junction of Queensway and Westbourne Grove, both of which teem with restaurants of every ethnicity, quality and price level. The exterior is certainly enticing enough: housed in what for decades was a bank, its huge, unadorned, 1930s-style windows draw you into a high-ceilinged, dark wooded, neutral-toned room of 115 covers (plus a private basement of 35). Huge brightly-hued collages of pop and calendar art from the fireworks town of Sivakasi in the southern State of Tamil Nadu enliven the walls.

The Atmosphere
Despite opening recently, Masala Zone appears to have gained more than a toehold; even on a weeknight, trade is brisk with diners predominantly young and casual. It is de rigueur, of course, for casual, modern restaurants to eschew all sound-absorbing carpets, curtains and upholstery. Thankfully, noise levels here do not rise above the tolerable, thanks to those magnificent high ceilings. In that other restaurant must-have of The Noughties, the open kitchen, all is gleaming bustle. The young, international, T-shirt-clad waiting staff are keen and generally competent.

The Food
Street food and thalis are the backbone of all Masala Zone’s branches, but there are curries, biryanis and dishes from the tandoor oven, too. Even Indian-ised noodles get a look-in. From the street food section, a grazing platter for two (£6.80) features bhel, a mound of crunchy, puffed rice vermicelli mixed with tomato, onion, cucumber, coriander, peanuts and sweet corn kernels. With its rounded spicing and well-judged chilli heat, this is a moreish winner. Almost as good are dahi puri (which staff advise should be popped into the mouth whole to avoid a messy collapse), a yoghurt-y, crunchy, puffed, hollow biscuit filled with chickpeas; and sev puri, an equally crunchy biscuit featuring firm and delicious mash and beautifully judged chutney. You’ve seen nothing like this at your local curry house.

Onto the mains, where thalis are split into three sections; regular, grand (which the menu rightly warns is equal to a starter and main combined), and even, for diabetics, ayurvedic, cooked in accordance with India’s traditional system of medicine of that name. Diners select a main course from the neighbouring curry list. All the other items are set but change daily. For a grand lamb thali (£10.90), diners choose from korma or roghan josh. If their creamy, sweet blandness put you off kormas years ago, it’s time to give them another try. At modern places like this, the tender meat arrives in a dark sauce of warmly rounded spices. Also on the giant metal tray are fresh-tasting yellow lentil dhal, perfumed rice, coriander and pineapple chutneys (delicious and intriguing, respectively), a top-notch wholemeal chapatti, potato, and mixed veg in a tomato-y sauce. All in all, this is a hunger-busting bargain.

Less impressive are tandoori prawns (£9.05). The five, average-sized, shell-on specimens arrive smeared with good tandoori paste but are disappointingly floury rather than firm and juicy, and the portion feels less than generous. Their accompanying naan and mint raita are fine (although there’s a bit of a wait for them after the prawns are delivered), and the salad is fresh and varied, unlikely the wilted lettuce arrangements of Indian establishments of old. A side order of fresh veg of the day (£2.55) merits a black mark, as it has been changed from cabbage to okra, and this is not mentioned until it is delivered. Modern diners might prefer their ladies’ fingers slightly more al dente, but at least there’s none of that sticky goo you get when this strange vegetable is cooked incorrectly, and it has loads of yummy coconut sauce for mopping up with naan.

A sextet of dessert options includes gulab jamun with vanilla ice cream (£3.75). So often, these dough balls are steeped in such intensely sweet syrup, they jar with Western palates. Here, the sugar has been reigned in, although not much else in the way of flavouring has taken its place. However, the contrast between the warm dough and cold, good quality ice cream provides a pleasant end to the meal. Kulfi (£3.25) is available in old-favourite mango and pistachio flavours, plus unusual caramel. The mango variety is slightly crystallised but has plenty of fruit flavour and that gorgeous, characteristic, toffee-ish texture.

The Drink
A compact but global wine list features five reds, five whites and a single rose. There are no dessert wines and the only way of getting a drop of fizz is to go for a mango prosecco Bellini (£5.60). No wine bursts through the £20 barrier and virtually all, commendably, are available by the 175 or 250ml glass, or 500ml carafe. The rose (Pink Elephant, Estremadura from Portugal, £4.35 a small glass, £15.50 a bottle) is disappointingly monotone. Far better is a rich and zingy French Grenache blanc/chardonnay (£3.85 a small glass, £13.65 a bottle). As for the reds, a Grenache/merlot (les vignes de l’eglise, also French and the same prices) is warm, soft and easy-going, whilst a Spanish Tempranillo/cabernet sauvignon, do Valencia sequoit (£4.25 a small glass, £15.20 a bottle) is spicy and more complex.

There’s a tiny range of spirits with mixers, Tiger and Cobra bottle beers (£3.05 for 33cl), and some interesting soft options like Masala Coke (Coke with crushed mint, lemon juice and spice, £1.95) and nimboo pani (fresh Indian lemon squash, £2.60). Chaas (£2.60) is prosaically described as a thin fat free lassi with salt, coriander leaves and cumin seeds. It is so overwhelmingly salty, only one sip is consumed. Still or sparkling mineral water is £1.85 for 50cl. Tap water comes in large, unadorned glasses, and is replenished willingly. Things are kept simple after the meal with only coffee, spiced Indian milky tea (masala chai), Assam tea and a fresh mint infusion (all £1.95) on offer.

The Last Word
In eight years, Masala Zone has grown from a single branch in Soho to half a dozen in the centre, north and west of the Capital, and it’s not hard to see why. The casual, spur-of-the-moment dining experience it provides, with interesting food and smiley service, is exactly what so many of us want these days, a million miles from the flock wallpaper, predictable dishes and sometimes surly service of yesteryear. A few culinary blips could be ironed out but, when three courses and half a bottle of wine can be had for £25 all-in, it’s a fair bet the Zone’s zone will expand apace in years to come.

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