Maxim

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 4 reviews

Venue Image
153-155 Northfield Avenue,
West Ealing,
London,
W13 9QT

0872 148 4911
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byVivienne Egan14/11/2011
A long-term purveyor of Peking cuisine in Ealing, Maxim is a well-known restaurant with a loyal local clientele and the credentials to help it stand out amongst its numerous neighbouring restaurants on Northfields Avenue.

The Venue
Opting for understated elegance over gimmicky ‘authenticism’ (read: the sound of harps; kimono-style dresses on the waitresses) Maxim is all soft, low lighting and polished, dark wood furnishings. The tone is definitely set to ‘tasteful’, even if the exposed brickwork on the street facing wall and the fish tank in the waiting area may be considered giveaways to the restaurants 1970s origins.

The Atmosphere
This is a popular venue and attracts a varied crowd, including many families, so don’t go here if you want to be guaranteed a child-free evening. You must also be prepared for a degree of noisy hustle and bustle but the restaurant is large enough to afford everyone a decent amount of space to enjoy themselves. Service here is speedy and could be seen as bordering on the impersonal; however, considering how busy the restaurant is this is forgivable, and staff are certainly courteous, if not particularly chummy.

The Food
Maxim’s menu offers the expected Chinese-restaurant fare, along with options for more adventurous dishes including frog’s legs in black bean sauce (£9.90) as a starter. The mixed hot platter (£8.20 per head/minimum of two orders) - a combination of prawn toast, crispy seaweed, spare ribs and satay prawn and chicken skewers - proves that the restaurant can do familiar Chinese cuisine more than competently. The satay dipping sauce is a particular delight – avoiding greasiness in favour of a delicate nutty taste and a subtle undercurrent of heat. Likewise, the fragrant crispy duck (9.20 for a quarter) is also prepared to a high standard, with tender meat and a golden-brown skin (with just the right amount of crunch) served with a rich and plumy hoi sin sauce.

Crispy beef with chilli sauce (£7.10) - apparently the restaurant's most popular main course – avoids the pitfall of being all batter with no beef, and the sweet tang of the sauce complements the result nicely. Chicken breast with cashew nut (£6.90) is mild without being bland; the chicken itself being perfectly moist and succulent, and the cashew nut sauce working to delicately enhance, rather than overpower, its flavour. Special fried rice (£4.60) is generous in its ratio of meat to grain, and comes complete with some plump and juicy king prawns.

All in all, the dishes at Maxim are obviously the product of a kitchen that has had a wealth of experience in preparing popular Chinese cuisine for the Western palate. The one real criticism is that a degree of stodgy oiliness is not completely averted. Maxim, despite undoubtedly having a talented team and good-quality ingredients behind its offerings, has not yet made the step towards pushing the ‘fresh’ over the ‘fatty’.

The Drink
There is fully stocked spirits bar, as well as an extensive wine list with house bottles priced at £13.50. The Chevanceau Aude is a sharp enough red to cut through some of the oiliness in the food, so it comes recommended. Beer, including China’s own Tsingtao Lager, is also available and starts at £3.50 a bottle.

The Last Word
Maxim has certainly earned its popularity amongst Ealing locals, even if it's not worth travelling across the city for. Those who would wish for truly fresh and inventive dishes from a restaurant that presents itself as being a little upmarket might feel cheated, but if you’re after tried and tested recipes within an attractive setting, Maxim is definitely worth a look-in.
Maxim has been reviewed by 4 users
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