4-6 Essex Road,
Islington,
London,
N1 8LN
(020) 7359 5361
The ViewLondon Review
Meat People is the new neighbourhood steakhouse in Islington with a quirky name and impressive steaks and cocktails.
The Venue
Situated on Essex Road, Meat People maintains its Grade 2 historical exterior, with only the memory serving up reminders of the greasy fry ups knocked out by Alfredo in his much less salubrious cafe. The nod to history is also evident inside, with a glorious handmade 1920s ceiling contrasting with chrome furniture and sharp yellow leather sofas to offer an attractive sense of history that's offset well by impeccably judged modern additions.
The Atmosphere
The ‘neighbourhood restaurant’ feel is a theme which comes up regularly for a venue that wants to be seen as a friendly spot at which the locale and those from further afield will want to visit when they crave good quality food. Comfortably sized, the restaurant is perfectly suited for cosy conversations amongst couples, as well as small groups of friends chattering away over candlelit tables. Waiters are down to earth, keen to help with any requests and happy to recommend dishes, including the best cooking time for the steak of your choice. Give the bar your favourite spirit and they can whip up a cocktail for you as well.
The Food
Whilst the concept is more steakhouse than anything else, there are fish and seafood options for those who would want variation; just don’t expect too many vegetarian options, obviously. Starters range from £6.50 to £8, and comprise choices such as scallops with chickpea puree, and mackerel on a bed of cherry tomatoes on the vine. The scallops are seared perfectly on both sides, and are accompanied by a garlic-infused puree of chickpeas. Both earthy flavours are intensified by the small but sharp mini salsa sitting atop each of the scallops. The grilled Mackerel lends its rich flavours perfectly to the juicy tomatoes upon which it lay, with rosemary and capers offering attractive garnish.
Differing to many other restaurants of this ilk, Meat People offers the oft-ignored cut from under the rib cage, the onglet (£16), which comes with the adroit advice of ordering medium rare. A big and juicy rib eye (£18) is a good shout for those unwilling to experiment, and a meat platter for two to share (£36) is good for the greedy. The onglet is richly marbled due to the location of the cut, but is slightly firmer than the soft and tender rib eye. Both, however, are clearly impressive cuts, showcasing some good sourcing from a team that clearly values provenance. Side orders range from £3 to £5 and include very good chips, simple green leaves and some very tasty roasted courgettes.
Desserts comprise such things as a filo tower (£4.80), with thin pastry filled with strawberry and blueberries covered in a rich vanilla cream with an undertone of pistachio. For those more interested in sharper tastes, a lime cheesecake (£5.50) combines the acidity of the citrus fruit with an impeccable balance of savoury and sweet.
The Drink
A rich menu of wines is available from £16 to £40 a bottle, with the majority of choices from old world wines. A well stocked bar greets you on entrance and you can either select cocktails from the menu or request for one to be made to your tastes.
The Last Word
A cracking newcomer to the heart of Islington, this laid back venue is perfect for those who like to revel in a bit of modern history whilst enjoying some delicious, well cooked food.
Meat People has been reviewed by 4 users