Hidden away from the Regent Street hordes, Melito serves up slices of pizza in style.

The Venue
A reassuring stagger away from the static mass looking bewildered on Regent Street, Melito isn’t necessarily on the beaten path but it’s all the better for it. A peaceful little al fresco seated area leads into a clean, informal venue combining retro tiled flooring, leather bench seating, a smattering of wooden tables and an impressive looking timber and glass service area that houses all the bits and bobs on offer. The limited space is used impeccably, with mirrors (and even mirrored disco balls) well placed to make it feel spacious, and everything laid out so that it retains the kind of relaxed atmosphere that makes you want to stay.

The Atmosphere
The combination of informal dining and lazy, long drinking seems like an enticing one, with even those who popped in to grab a quick bite to eat looking like they’re tempted to open up a bottle of wine and start reclining. You get the feeling that this place will be a word of mouth venue, but the few that do walk past either look intriguingly in or grab a seat. Those inside are a mixed bunch, from lone diners and those grabbing takeaways to young couples and girls gossiping over wine. Service is impeccably friendly.

The Food
Melito’s big selling point is their excellent pizzas, finished to order in a speedy pizza oven and served by the generous slice (you can even halve these further, enabling you to have two different toppings). The quality of both the bases and the ingredients are excellent, so a simple margherita (£2.95) is raised above the average by fresh basil and the superb Laverstoke Park buffalo mozzarella. The red onion and rosemary (£3) boasts some deliciously caramelised onion fragranced with rosemary and balanced nicely with the mild Taleggio cheese. Perhaps the best though is the fennel and Parma ham (£3.50), where a generous amount of good quality Parma ham is complemented by sweet, gently roasted fennel and plenty of peppery rocket.

It’s not just pizzas that impress though, with the delectable salads rivalling the Leons of the world. Available as sides or as something more substantial, they’re well balanced and well conceived. The green bean salad (£2.50 or £4.95) boasts crunchy beans, red pepper, red onion, hazelnut, feta and an ever so slightly sweet orange dressing that brings it all together. The char-grilled broccoli salad (£2.40 or £4.75) is every bit as good, with loads of crunchy broccoli dressed with goat’s cheese, caramelised red onion and pine nuts. Desserts look similarly delicious, with a white and dark chocolate mousse with black cherries (£2.20), a strawberry and mascarpone cheesecake (£2.20) and the renowned Jude’s Ice Creams (£2.20) being particular highlights.

The Drink
Showcasing Melito’s pleasing lack of pretension, there are three wines available; a red, a white and a rose, all Alpha Zeta Valpolicellas. Available by the glass (£4) or the bottle (£16), the mark-up isn’t huge so you know you’re getting good value for money on what are some very decent drops. Again, keeping things simple, there’s only one beer available - the ever-reliable bottled Peroni (£3) - but if you want to keep things distinctly teetotal there are plenty of options, including excellent Musetti coffee (£1.80 for an Americano), Innocent smoothies (£2.20), This Waters (£1.70) and Life Water (£1).

The Last Word
If you find yourself caught up in the metachronal rhythm of Regent Street, force your way out, head for Melito and enjoy one of the area’s best little venues.

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