Founded in 1980 by Ken Lo, Memories of China in both Belgravia and Kensington have faithfully maintained their reputation of serving modernised traditional Chinese dishes with such honesty and flair.

The Venue
The arguably more understated sister-restaurant in Kensington is small and surprisingly discreet but endearingly so. Its frosted glass windows conceal the fresh, clean decor within, the pristine white tablecloths and china, the criss-cross light wood dividers and the vivid scarlet red chairs. It is elegant without being precious, refined without being boring.

The Atmosphere
For a weekday lunchtime the restaurant is understandably quiet, the wooden floors carry the few audible whispers and the immaculately suited smilingly polite. Front of house staff are conscientiously waiting for the precise moment to pounce. They are clearly standing by but subtly holding back, pottering around the bar at the back of the restaurant, but all it takes is a mere head movement to rouse them.

The Food
The menu is an exciting pleasure to read. Although it’s not entirely adventurous or risque, it is classy and one gets the impression that everything will be cooked well. If you’re looking for the classics (sweet and sour pork, crispy shredded beef, lemon chicken) you will not be disappointed, but there are far more intriguing options to choose from. The smoked chicken is pleasantly subtle and covered in fresh red chillies (about £8), the three-spiced pork is satisfyingly salty and chilli-hot (£8), the Peking minced pork dumplings are meaty, fragrant with lemongrass and coriander and juicy (about £8) and the piece de resistance: the fried courgettes stuffed with minced prawn are a wonderful combination of richness and freshness, crisp battered outside and soft textured centre (about £8).

The duck is as it should be, crispy skin notably smothered in Chinese spices and moist pulled duck meat (about £13 for a quarter). If it’s a celebration or you fancy pushing the boat out, the fresh lobster cooked in ginger and spring onion and served on a bed of handmade noodles is superb: rich, tender and pleasingly extravagant for around £32. For those with room to experiment further, the good old classic of sweet and sour pork is free of glutinous cornflour-y sauce and unsavoury orange food-colouring and is instead a representation of its core ingredients: sharp vinegar, sweet rice wine and sugar and the ubiquitous soy sauce (£12). Several variations of rice with mixed meats, seafood and egg are great accompaniments (£4 - £6) and how lovely to be offered seasonal vegetables as and when they are available; pak choi one day, choi sum the next (£6).

The Drink
Memories of China offers an extensive list of Champagne, wines and spirits. The house Sauvignon Blanc for example is around the £20 mark but the Pinot Grigio Alto Adige just short of £30 is outstanding: dry, crisp with acidic undertones that stimulate your taste buds and cut through the overhaul of rich spices and most importantly served perfectly cold. The House Champagne (Perrier Jouet) at £50 is smooth with a delicate finish, perfect to end such a wonderful meal.

The Last Word
For four people at £60 a head, you have an abundance of interesting and exciting food, good wine and a glass or two of bubbly to boot. Minus the celebratory bottle of Champagne and the Pinot Grigio, add a couple of bottles of house wine and it’s more like a moderate £40 a head including service. One tiny niggle: a dinner rather than a lunch at Memories of China might offer a more sociable buzzing vibe.

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