41 Beauchamp Place,
Knightsbridge,
London,
SW3 1NX
(020) 3144 0072
The ViewLondon Review
Family recipes and nostalgia for the homeland are the supporting pillars of this Russian deli. Jars of pickles and glazed gingerbreads will mix in your basket together with the best world ingredients to create a unique mix. Sample it all at the deli’s few tables before you decide what to take home.
The Venue
Nested in between Knightsbridge and South Kensington, Beauchamp Place is a strip of small boutiques and elite family businesses selling everything from stationery to jewels. A few steps above street level you’ll find The Merchants Yard, a Russian deli. Past the entrance is a deli counter that’s flanked by a large window overlooking the street. On one wall, shelves show orderly rows of traditional Russian products with a few concessions to world flavours. Glass jars of pickles mix with canned olives and tinned fish decorated by ornate Cyrillic characters, and even chocolate spoons from Italy find their place in the display, as rich in colour and variety as it is in flavour.
Past a row of tall chairs, perfect for having a quick breakfast or lunch, are the stairs to the basement. Bright thanks to a skylight, the space is airy and clean and the vibrant colours of the tablecloth bring it to life. Dark wooden shelves host more products whilst a single wooden table that seats eight to ten encourages strangers to sit together. Colourful details like traditional slippers made of woven reeds, napkins in a rustic floral red and yellow berry print and lacquer bowls filled with chocolates and sweets cheer up the whole environment.
The Atmosphere
The Merchants Yard’s location is one of elegant refinement but the surprise is that the place is actually far from pretentious, snobbish or exclusive. In fact, it’s easy to feel welcome as staff greet everyone coming through the door in the same warm fashion. There is no need to show off heavy jewellery or a fur coat to feel at ease here, although you’ll want to give your muddy trainers a miss if you’re coming for lunch.
The clientele is varied. Nostalgic Russians come in to have a real taste of their home (testimony to the authenticity of the recipes), whilst the cultural elite – or just the curious – come to be educated about Russian cuisine. Lunch can be busy but it is the ideal moment to sample the menu and soak up the atmosphere. Alternatively, their breakfast will infuse you with energy for the rest of the day, thanks to the strong coffees and teas and the rich traditional Russian morning food.
The Food
The deli counter displays a great variety of salads and pastries but there is definitely more than meets the eye. If you are looking for a hot meal or snack, the pirozhok (pastry filled with potato or eggs with spring onions, £2.99) are a popular option and so is the belyash (pastry filled with meat, £3.50). Alternatively you can opt for Russian pelmeni, a type of Siberian dumpling filled with pork, onions, garlic, salt and pepper, blinis (small pancakes) served with red caviar or salmon, or petmeni (mixed slices of pork, chicken and beef) and more. Popular takeaway options include black and red caviar, including Mottra, sustainable caviar harvested without killing the fish, which leads to bigger eggs.
The fried pastry filled with meat is the epitome of that rich Russian flavour needed to survive the cold winters, but most recipes have been lightened to meet the approval of health conscious Londoners. Hence, the olevje, the traditional Russian salad with small cubes of boiled vegetables dressed in homemade mayonnaise, is lighter than you might expect while still retaining its delicate flavour. Another popular salad mixes celery, apples and pomegranate; the resulting flavour is sweet and slightly tangy, delicate and very refreshing. Or buy a tin of cod liver and have it served on a plate, another delicate flavour very popular in Russia. If you are looking for something stronger, though, you can sample the dips with bread: pesto, tapenade and spicy pepper paste nod to Mediterranean cuisine, which is appreciated in Moscow just as elsewhere. Likewise, heartier dishes include herring under the blanket, a traditional Russian dish that looks like a cake, featuring layers of boiled potatoes, carrots and eggs, beetroot, herring, onion and mayonnaise.
Dessert lovers are in for a treat here. Although at the moment there isn’t that much of a variety, the Napoleon cake (£2.99 a slice) is simply divine. A stack of even pancakes with a smooth, light custard in between, this cake is sweet and indulgent and yet light. During Easter, the traditional kulich cake is on offer. And if your thirst for culinary knowledge has not been quenched yet, you can also book a seat at the monthly Russian dinners showcasing the best of Russian cuisine, along with traditional recipes from former USSR countries like Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan.
The Drink
Although it’s not yet licensed to sell alcohol, The Merchants Yard offers wine, beer and spirits with dinners booked in advance and you can also buy a bottle to enjoy at home. Alcoholic drinks start from a very fairly priced £8 for beautifully decorated bottles (try the Snow Queen vodka if you are looking for an exaggerated design) sure to impress any guest, whilst the hot drinks (£1.55 - £2.75) draw from the long established Russian tradition.
The country is famous for being more selective than England regarding their tea and here you can sample a very good variety served in finely painted old fashioned teapots and cups. The coffee is strong and full bodied and even those looking for comforting hot chocolate will be satisfied as The Merchants Yard offers an hot Italian drink called buosino – imagine an espresso cup filled with half espresso and half dark hot chocolate and served with a dark chocolate spoon, melting as you stir. Deliciously indulgent. Traditional Russian lemonade – a bright green colour – is also on offer.
The Last Word
Perfectly balanced in between posh supermarket and lunch deli, the food is tempting, the desserts luxurious and the hot drinks seriously high quality, making The Merchants Yard the ideal destination for a culinary experience – one that you can either have in, or take away.
Merchants Yard has been reviewed by 8 users