Merkato is likely the closest London comes to Ethiopia and offers a truly different dining experience – especially for the adventurous.

The Venue
Set on a rundown stretch of Caledonian Road just far enough from the hustle of King’s Cross to be considered out of the way, the Ethiopian restaurant Merkato is well-placed in what is becoming a semi-hub of Ethiopians within central London. Merkato stands out due to its yellow picket fence and foliage which spills out onto the street, fitting perhaps given it’s named after Addis Merkato, the largest outdoor market in Africa, a name which reflects the restaurant’s focus on fresh produce and, perhaps most importantly, Ethiopian coffee, which is the market’s main product.

The Atmosphere
Merkato sticks to the African theme throughout. African string paintings, tapestries and wooden artifacts adorn the otherwise plain, dark red walls, whilst wooden floors and tables add to the simplistic and rustic feel of the place. Hovering somewhere between being completely authentic and deliberately themed, reassurance of authenticity comes from the often large huddle of local Ethiopians around the bar which, along with the super-helpful staff, also provides the restaurant with a friendly buzz and slightly communal atmosphere.

The Food
Ethiopian food is by its nature varied, but even by these standards, Merkato’s menu is vast. Everything is served in the traditional way on large injera - slightly sour, puffy, pancake-style Ethiopian bread made from teff flour. The dishes which adorn this bread cost around £5 to £8 each and are brought to the table in bowls before being poured onto the injera, usually for everyone at the table to share. There are no knives and no forks – just more injera and good old hands. The varied range of dishes available to be scooped up include: succulent lega tibs, tender cubes of lamb served with green pepper and lightly fried onions; similar but drier and spicier derek tibs; doro wot, peppery, stewed chicken thighs which come with a stewed hard-boiled egg (difficult to share given the lack of cutlery); ayib begomen an Ethiopian special consisting of spinach and a kind of cottage cheese, which acts a refreshing antidote to spicy dishes; plus several dhal-style lentil stews and all manner of mixed salads which are predominantly lettuce and tomato based. Once these are finished, the juice-soaked injera base can be eaten - possibly the best bit of all!

The Drink
The drinks list at Merkato is as authentic as the food menu, and almost as varied too. Alongside plenty of wine choices (bottles start around £14 and are also available by the glass), there is a selection of three Ethiopian beers (all £3 per bottle) including the recommended St. Georges lager which has a sweet, grain flavour and is an Ethiopian favourite despite its British sounding name. The most interesting drink on offer, though, must be taj – Ethiopian honey wine, which is made on-site. This is the house wine and comes by the bottle for £12. An acquired taste, it is reminiscent of very dry cider, possibly even slightly past its best cider, but with the sweetness of the honey lifting through this to create a very drinkable and rewardingly different accompaniment to the often spicy food. Coffee is another must, especially given the ritual that comes with it. The freshly roasted beans will first be brought to the table so their aroma can be enjoyed as they cool before being taken away for grinding. They reappear at the table as, dark, thick, espresso-style coffee which tastes all the better for being served from a silver Ethiopian coffee pot.

The Last Word
Merkato is Ethiopian to the core and as such offers a genuine dining experience – a guaranteed antidote to restaurant tedium.

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