Tucked away off New Bond Street and part of a large, multi-faceted venue, the restaurant at Mews of Mayfair does an excellent job of bridging the divide between stuffy fine dining and lively informal eating. It’s not a span without tensions but the end result is certainly gratifying.

The Venue
The restaurant at Mews occupies part of an intelligently converted collection of mews houses, and sits above a cocktail bar and basement lounge, both of which are part of the same venture. The venue also offers private dining, an art gallery and a reception space, combining to provide a lively and welcoming retreat from the sharp elbows of one of London’s richest retail hubs.

A side door takes diners straight up to the restaurant (for those who want to avoid the rowdier downstairs crowd), but the alternative approach down a beautiful cobbled street with tables and overspill from the cocktail bar makes it clear there's more than just dining available. The restaurant itself is dressed as an archetypal fine dining room but there are hints of the trattoria about some of the detailing, suggesting a Mediterranean influence that's reflected in many of the voices that ring through the venue.

The Atmosphere
The atmosphere is what lifts this place above its formal W1 neighbours, and much credit must go to the management and staff for their clear commitment making sure diners enjoy themselves. From the coat-check onwards there is nothing but smiles, resulting in an air of relaxation rarely achieved by this bracket of restaurant. Critically this does not come at the expense of efficiency - or the trappings of the fine dining experience. The dining room is small and intimate, and there's a contagious friendliness from staff and fellow diners alike that combines perfectly with the excellent food and wine.

The Food
The a la carte menu at Mews is a satisfying if not hugely adventurous affair that has something to satisfy most appetites, and the quality of food is excellent. The price range of the menu is also broad enough to satisfy most wallets with a gourmet burger and chips (foie gras optional) coming off the grill at a very reasonable £12, and a chateaubriand tipping the higher end of the chart at £55 for two.

A taster menu and a very reasonable prix fixe menu are also available and it's testament to the management (and in keeping with the ambition of the wider venue) that so many markets can be catered for effectively. It's even greater testament to the kitchen that the quality of food coming off the pass does not suffer as a result of this largely benign restaurant personality disorder.

Scallops and Jerusalem artichoke puree is fast becoming de rigeur as a combination but still requires extreme care and delicacy to execute properly – the plump examples on offer here are perfectly seared and the puree delicate and beautifully turned. Pan fried foie gras with poached pear is similarly staple at most high end eateries, but again this was excellently delivered, with a fine reduction complementing the well handled pate and fruit. Both starters are elevated by a fragrant and powerful garnish of micro-herbs which showed a deftness of touch and sophistication of flavour beyond the reach of most of the menu.

Main courses also follow a well trodden path; no bad thing when the quality of delivery is high. And the addition of some options from the grill is a welcome plus. Whole black bream with fennel and apple is an enticing combination and is delivered well – precisely cooked fennel and apple providing a sweet and fragrant base for perfectly grilled and expertly seasoned fish. Combining beef bourguignon and pappardelle is intriguing, but whilst each element of the dish is expertly cooked their presence together on a single plate doesn't quite work. It must be said that this is a rare negative symptom of Mews’ ambition to satisfy all comers.

Desserts and cheeses are in keeping with the rest of the menu, similarly gratifying and clearly the fruit of a highly competent kitchen. The chocolate fondant with lavender Chantilly in particular, is worthy of special mention.

The Drink
The list here is expansive with an excellent selection of high end French wines, a broad range of medium priced bottles (with Italians taking centre stage) and some fine new world and Spanish options dominating the lower end. A separate Champagne list offering Mathusalems is a rare nod to the super-rich neighbourhood Mews calls home but the ethos of the place makes ordering a very reasonable (and extremely good) tempranillo feel just as apt. Waiters are well versed in the arts of matching and it would serve any patron well to trust their judgement in getting the most out of their plate and glass.

The Last Word
The wide and varied nature of the offer at Mews could have led to a restaurant with no identifiable character or clear influences. It has instead given rise to an enthusiastic and vibrant dining room which takes the best from its sibling spaces and uses them to frame a truly enjoyable eating experience.

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