This burrito place on Berwick Street seems to be sitting on arid land.

The Venue
For curiously untold reasons, the Beach Burrito Cafe - an affordable boho-Soho stalwart - has been shut down and boarded up. Before its boards could begin to develop waterstains, another assembly-line westernized Mexican food chain outlet has set up stall.

Bright, young Mexicali sits on the non-market side of Berwick Street. From the outside, the L-shaped space looks large: high ceilings, and clean, wide walls and floor extend deep into the establishment where part of its back area is hidden from view. The front - with its long maroon counter and overhead menus - looks every part the chain restaurant, while the seating area in the back resembles a barn in the desert with its plain wood panels, wooden seats, and potted cactus and aloe vera centrepieces.

The Atmosphere
With the ceilings lowered and the back barn door windows blurred, the seating area feels more like a basement than a barn. The wooden furniture look too clean and young to be recycled, but environmentalists will approve of the use of wooden forks and knives. The budget service (that includes the service of giving out smiles) offered within the surrounds of light cardboard-coloured walls and floors project a sterile, albeit polite, atmosphere. Friday night dinner in this new distant universe is quiet.

The Food
The menu is short and simple with limited options - burritos, quesadillas, enchiladas and tacos come with four different filling options each: beef, chicken, pork or vegetarian (usually beans and cheese). Most items are priced at £5.20, and for an extra 50p you get a generous dollop of a medium-chunky guacamole. Hard-shelled tacos are packed with crunchy greens, resulting in an even, varying-textured vegetarian taco. And even though the flat quesadillas are not crammed with fillings, the portion is adequate, even for a hearty appetite.

The Drink
Pick your own bottled drinks from the refrigerated rack located next to the cashier. Choices include still and sparkling (£1.20) water, iced tea and half-filled cups of lime juice.

The Last Word
A good place for vegetarians, and they should visit soon because judging by the Friday night non-crowds, this chain may not survive. For fans of the Beach Burrito Cafe, a sparkly new burrito place in this part of Soho may be too soon, or never.

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