The master chef of Marylebone packs a culinary punch at his cosy Blandford Street venue.

The Venue
Intimate is one word that springs to mind when you enter through the custard yellow doors of Michael Moore's Marylebone restaurant, but stark white walls and cleverly placed mirrors have made the most of this small space, giving the overall look the sleek manner of a Bond Street boutique. Yes, cosy may be its middle name, but the small, linen-clad tables are perfect for that romantic interlude. Downstairs houses the Red Room, a private dining area which is ideal for a celebratory dinner with a cluster of close friends.

The Atmosphere
Michael and his loyal team have managed to achieve what many restaurateurs try so desperately to do: create a friendly, neighbourhood ambience while serving fine haute cuisine. It has the homely atmosphere of a place where friends become customers and customers become friends, there are no cliques or snootiness despite the fancy W1 address. Soft jazz in the background diffuses the low hum of friendly chatter and the charming but not over-attentive staff allows for privacy despite the compactness of the room.

The Food
Michael Moore is not the sort of place you go just to fill your belly. The food is the star attraction and each dish is perfectly crafted and elegantly served. The menu on offer is as worldly as the chef, from tenderloin of springbok to foie gras and mushy peas, no continent goes unrepresented. Starters range from £7 to £10, and mains can be anywhere from £15 to £30. The menu changes every six weeks allowing for Michael Moore's innovation to indulge itself and for the customer to experience yet more of his genius. For starters, the paprika scallops are deliciously soft and gentle and served with a snappy sour apple puree, whilst the pan-fried foie gras has the soft, sweet texture of a warm milk jelly.

For the main courses, the smoky, char-grilled lobster comes perfectly presented, thankfully without the need for tools and bibs, and accompanied by a deliciously creamy artichoke coulis and succulent razor clams. The dish is presented palatially on a large white platter, which is sadly too heavy to lift for licking. The rare beef fillet has a dark, melting texture and comes with enoki mushrooms and an egg cup of spring onion souffle. Although it's certainly haute cuisine, there are none of the minute bird-like portions you might expect. The dishes are derived to comfortably sate you, but also leave enough room for the next course.

To leave the restaurant without having a third course is like leaving the theatre before the end of a play. The entire meal is a culinary adventure and by skipping a course you are simply denying yourself. For dessert, the fondue is a must. A platter of exotic fruit served with both dark and white melted chocolate. The fresh pineapple and bananas cooked in rum is a warm, sweet delight and just enough to not to push you over the edge into full-dom.

The Drink
The wine list is well thought out and although not overly extensive, it does cover all tastes. Surprisingly, the prices are not over the top and you can get a fine Marlborough Pinot Noir for under £20. Of course there are the more showy wines such as the £70 Margaux, but there's still no need to re-mortgage, unlike at restaurants of a similar ilk. Recommended are the dessert wines, if you have never tried a sweet Muscat with your fruity dessert, you are certainly missing out on a real treat. Try a dark red Banyuls, which would certainly be more of a port if it wasn't served chilled, as the perfect match to the rich chocolate fondue.

The Last Word
Six years is a lifetime in the restaurant world and Michael Moore's success shows no sign of slowing down. If a restaurant of this quality was run by anyone else, it would certainly be a more pretentious and no doubt a less friendly affair. Recommended.

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