Rather than A Clockwork Orange's Korova, this particular Milk Bar is a paean to the new religion that is cafes and coffee. And a serious attitude is part of the brewing process.

The Venue
Sister venue to the acclaimed Flat White, Milk Bar embodies the same straight-faced minimalism of the original. The whole room is painted black, with streamlined furniture – namely a bench along the wall, simple square tables and backless stools – to fill it. The only visual concessions are the art on display (Milk Bar nearly doubles as a gallery), the retro light bulbs above the counter and the large fans on the ceiling. The utilitarian kitchen is just behind the counter and you get the feeling everything here is displayed with eager honesty.

The Atmosphere
Slightly less congested than its older sister, Milk Bar is very similar in atmosphere to Flat White: there's a whiff of pretentiousness in the area, helped by the cool magazines available from the rack and by the arty and slightly self-conscious customers that mirror the severe professional seriousness of the staff. But the essence of Milk Bar is the music: no matter if the album is contemporary or vintage, the playlist is taken very very seriously.

The Food
You could almost expect only fry-ups since the attitude is so uncompromising. Instead, Milk Bar softens its edge with a contemporary offer for both breakfast (£2.30-£5.50) and lunch (£3-£5.50). To wake up and recharge, you can choose from porridge, French toast, bircher muesli, Greek yoghurt with banana and strawberries and much more. The lunch options are just as tempting with, among the others, a delicious-sounding olive ciabatta bap with sundried tomatoes, pesto, rocket and goat's cheese, and the just as mouth-watering marinated tofu salad with avocado and orange. There's also a potato and feta salad and other items (many of which have a vegan option) alongside a classic selection of muffins and sweet best-friends for coffee.

The Drink
Coffee is more expensive than usual but the quality is also by far superior to any chain (buy a package of their own roast for £7 and do-it-yourself at home). There is a long selection of no-nonsense classics (made with their shiny Marzocco espresso machine), plus the trademark flat white, affogato, long macchiato and others (£1.80-£2.50 or £1.70-£2.70 takeaway). So why 'milk' bar? Well, they serve milkshakes (£3.50 - your pick from strawberry, banana, chocolate, vanilla and expresso) but apparently this has nothing to do with the name. Answers on a postcard.

The Last Word
Milk Bar speaks of excellence: if the food is good, the hot drinks are impeccable. Too bad that excellence rhymes with thinly-veiled pretentiousness, although a bit of attitude comes with the territory and should not be a deterrent when the coffee is this good!

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