Competition amongst Indian restaurants in London is as hot as a vindaloo at the moment. Luckily for Millbank Spice it stands alone on a long stretch of Vauxhall Bridge Road and isn’t bad if you’re stuck nearby and don’t want to travel.

The Venue
Millbank Spice is a dominating building that’s hard to ignore. A large windowed frontage could have been welcoming if not for the blacked-out windows, which makes the expanse of space more imposing. A bold red sign stands out on the lonely stretch of Vauxhall Bridge Road, declaring its presence. Inside, past those foreboding windows, you’ll find a pleasant, airy space with wooden floors and an array of tables covered in pristine, crisp white tablecloths and gleaming glassware. It’s certainly a well-kept restaurant with flashes of foliage adding a homely appeal. The tables are also well spaced apart so you won’t be splashed by the curry sauce of your neighbouring table. Bonus.

The Atmosphere
What atmosphere? A little harsh perhaps as it’s hardly the fault of Millbank Spice that it’s located in a rather desolate spot of Pimlico. Were it positioned closer to Victoria the oft-empty seats may be easier to fill. At lunchtime it’s quiet, although business does pick up in the evening and the benefit of the quiet periods is that you’re guaranteed to be able to get a quick lunch here – important if you’ve only got an hour to spare. The staff are friendly enough although the language barrier can be mistaken for rudeness on occasion and you can’t expect much jovial banter.

The Food
Specialising in Bangladeshi and Indian cuisine, the food at Millbank Spice is actually pretty good with delicate balances of spices. The menu is lengthy so it may take you some time to peruse your choices, which include a mix of tandoori specialties, chicken, lamb, prawn and fish dishes. For starters, the shami kebabs (£3.95) are rich, meaty and well seasoned with onion and herbs and a pleasant undertone of garlic and ginger, whilst the samosa (£2.75) comes in a crisp batter filled with a spicy minced meat that again is perfectly seasoned but almost too heavy for a starter, especially at lunchtime.

For mains, the good old chicken korma (£6.95) is an excellent example of the dish with large, tender pieces of chicken in a creamy korma sauce with a strong undertone of coconut that adds a pleasant sweetness to the dish. Served with a side dish of fluffy, well-cooked plain rice (£2.55) it’s certainly one of the more appealing lunchtime options if you work in the area. Alternatively, the chicken vindaloo (£6.95) is so hot it really will blow your head off - unless you’re a fan of those kind of explosions you’re better off steering clear as the intense heat removes your ability to actually taste the dish. Far better instead is the hash shashlik from the tandoori selection, priced at a more expensive £12.95. The duck arrives off the bone and is tender and well portioned with a heavy barbecued flavour complemented by the sweetness of the onions and tomatoes. Perfectly balanced spices give it a pleasant, authentic Indian flavour that you just won’t get with the aforementioned English favourites of korma and vindaloo.

The Drink
Unlike some Indian restaurants, Millbank Spice does have a licence to serve alcohol and there are a handful of simple white and red bottles of wine to choose from at good prices – you will get change from £15. They also offer a selection of Indian beers, including the ubiquitous Cobra. If you’re not after an alcoholic drink with your meal then the mango lassis are delicious with a sweet flavour and thick consistency, although they will fill you up considerably when paired with a big Indian meal.

The Last Word
It’s a shame that Millbank Spice suffers as a result of its quiet location away from the main throng of nearby Victoria. A good find if you live or work in the area and are fed up by the lack of local choices.

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