This pan-Asian atop a high-rise hotel was reborn in September 2010 with a new name (it previously laboured under the hideously punning ‘Nippon Tuk’), a new look and new menu. If only the food were as awe-inspiring as its views of the capital.

The Venue
Take the lift from the Metropole’s busy foyer to the 23rd floor, ascend a black, silver and gold curving staircase with elaborate, modern chandelier and enter a long room of 65 covers in modern, generic, Asian style – dark woods, black décor with red accents. By night, most of London’s major landmarks twinkle far below and a clever use of mirrors means even diners with their back to the windows can enjoy the view.

The Atmosphere
A thick carpet soaks up chatter and mature, ultra-professional staff, formally attired in black and white are unfailingly friendly so although the place strives to be upmarket, it isn’t stuffy. The clientele is surprisingly mixed, comprising young families, younger couples, and the older, moneyed crowd.

The Food
Despite its brevity, the menu takes in China, Japan, Thailand and Malaysia with sushi and sashimi, dim sum, soups, noodle dishes and curries.

A starter of prawn kataifi style is inoffensive but far from a bargain at £7.50. Three medium prawns that taste simply of themselves are wrapped in the distinctive kataifi pastry and a bowl of chilli and garlic dipping sauce can’t elevate them from fair to fabulous. A trio of vegetarian dumplings (again, a modest portion but at least only £3.50 this time) features finely diced tofu, carrot and spring onion. The casing has that agreeable charred chewiness but the filling fails to sing.

At least the mains are man-sized. Mussaman (massaman) prawn curry (£16) features small chunks of butternut squash and potato, and is hearty rather than subtle, with plenty of coconut milk flavour and whole cardamom pods. There’s nothing to fault in the accompanying jasmine rice. There is though, rather a lot of gristle for £18.50 in the tamarind beef rump Malaysian style, though the pak choi, peppers and spring onions are accurately charred. Soy sauce is the dominant flavour, plus a little vinegary sauce smeared over the meat - it’s okay but far from plate-clearingly thrilling.

Dish of the night turns out to be one of the puddings. Almond and yoghurt panacotta (£6.50) in a puddle of jasmine tea syrup is well-made, interesting, refreshing and different. A chocolate fudge cake (£6.50), meanwhile, is so large as to be off-putting, and is ordinary anyway, despite its squiggles of coconut sauce and barely discernible coffee liqueur.

The Drink
A global wine list features five Champagnes, 14 whites, a solitary rosé and 13 reds, plus sake, hot or cold. Three sparkling wines, four whites, four reds and the rose are available by the glass. Both the house white and red (Chardonnay/Trebbiano Terre Forti and Sangiovese Terre Forti) are very much vins ordinaires, especially for £6 for the glass or £18.50 for the bottle.

The Last Word
You could get food just as good for a fraction of the price elsewhere if you didn’t care about a hushed atmosphere, formal service and jaw-dropping views. You might not find so many different Asian cuisines in one place, of course, but maybe that’s the problem here; maybe specialising in just Thai, Chinese or Japanese might deliver the outstanding dishes the prices merit.

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