Slightly to the southeast of the Brick Lane bustle lies this unassumingly excellent curry shop.

The Venue
Situated on an agreeably hodgepodge stretch of Commercial Road, Mirch Masala is just a quick jaunt from Aldgate East tube. The neighbourhood is populated by dozens of clothing wholesalers, a few competing (but less tasty) currymongers, and plenty of off-licenses – be sure to visit one before eating, since Mirch Masala is BYO.

The Atmosphere
Mirch Masala’s interior has all the charm of a university cafeteria, from the fluorescent lighting down to the happy chatter of well-fed youth. Brisk waiters and delightful aromas floating from the kitchen distract from a complete absence of character. While nothing is shabby or ugly, there is nothing much to distinguish it from any other East End curry house – except, of course, the excellent food.

The Food
Even the poppadoms at Mirch Masala are a cut above. Light and crisp, flecked with cumin seeds and flush with a faint chilli heat, they are a satisfying but tantalising prelude to the meal. The starters are also uniformly excellent. Most of them are simply consummate renditions of old standards, like the tangled bird’s nest of bhajia, crackly and sweet with molten onion. Vegetable and lamb samosas are cinnamony and warming, and the smoke-stained tikka dishes are among the best of their kind in London – the chicken, lemony and tender; the fish, fiery and flaky.

The main menu is honed to a couple columns of mostly chicken and vegetable dishes, though there are also a handful of lamb items. Karahi is the specialty here, and there are over two dozen versions of the dish from which to choose. The karahi is mild and tangy, a fragrant foundation to support a variety of other ingredients: chicken, prawns, and ginger all find a happy home in the bright orange sauce.

Chicken tends to be slightly dry and the sauces somewhat too saturated with ghee, but otherwise the curries here are very nicely done. The jalfrezi is soft and herbal, a blend of fenugreek, onion, and garlic. Vegetarians should also be quite satisfied at Mirch Masala, as the vegetable dishes are perhaps even better than the meat dishes. The Bombay aloo, to name just one, marries creamy potatoes to an earthy and spicy sauce.

The Drink
Mirch Masala is BYO and has no corkage fee. You could grab a typical lager from the offie, but food this good deserves a better brew. Try something darker and a bit sweeter, like a smooth German wheat beer, an English ESB or even a Guinness to pair with the rich curries and snappy spices.

The Last Word
Mirch Masala isn’t much to look at, but it is delightful to taste. Meals here rarely run more than £15 and very rarely fail to satisfy.

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