Going strong since the 1940s, Mon Plaisir still retains its old fashioned charm – and that’s just how the clientele likes it.

The Venue
With a reputation as one of the oldest French restaurants in London, first impressions live up to expectations. The front room of the restaurant is small and cramped, heaving with couples dining at small tables. Every empty space possible is covered in posters and bric-a-brac and it all looks like nothing has changed in the last 50 years. There have, though, been a few additions – most notably a few extra rooms to deal with the massive demand of customers. Moving from one room to the next involves negotiating tight hallways and small steps, which all adds to the experience. The second room is slightly more modern but retains the same old-fashioned French bistro feel, whilst the back room and first floor rooms are equally different in looks but similar in feel.

The Atmosphere
Thanks to its location, Mon Plaisir has enjoyed a massive trade over the years. It’s minutes away from Covent Garden and steps away from some of the West End’s most popular shows, and the lively atmosphere keeps them coming back for more. Service is professional but could be a bit friendlier and more helpful, particularly when asked for advice about wines.

The Food
No surprise what’s on the menu here – French food, including classics like escargot, French onion soup and steak tartare. Prices seem a bit high, even for the area, but there’s a good value pre-theatre menu at two courses for £13.95 and three courses for £15.95. From the a la carte starters, however, you can’t get any more French than snails with garlic and parsley butter (£6.50 for six, £13 for 12). Served in the appropriate dish, with the appropriate implements, the snails have a good, firm texture and prove for a satisfyingly French starter. Parfait of foie gras (£9.95) is smooth and slightly salty, with a line of passionfruit jelly along the bottom of the parfait. Also a highlight is the small, square brioche that’s the perfect consistency – not too crumbly or flaky.

Steak tartare (£17.50), raw beef mixed with raw egg, is unusual in that the meat seems to be chopped, not minced. It’s decent nonetheless, with a strong mustard flavour, although it would be more fun if you got to mix the condiments into the meat yourself. It comes with a small dish of crisp, thin frites. Roasted breast of duck with apple and chorizo marmalade (£17.95) is a standout dish, with a thick portion of duck breast on top of a coarse sweet potato mash. The marmalade is a good mix of both sweet and salty flavours, and the dish is dotted with slightly sour cherries.

For desserts, the vanilla rice pudding with salty caramel (£6) is rich and moreish, but the best of the lot is the Earl Grey flavoured crème (£6), which is smooth, delicate and buttery. It’s served with a crumbly shortbread biscuit, topped with a small sliced strawberry, and a pink grapefruit sorbet, which is refreshing without being too overwhelmingly tart.

The Drink
The wine list is, unsurprisingly, entirely French, but there’s good value starting from £16 for a bottle of house. It might be wise to pay a bit more for the wine, however, especially as the house white is slightly acidic. There are plenty of choices for under £30, with the priciest just nudging £100. Dessert wines and Champagnes (£35 to £140 for a bottle) are also on offer.

The Last Word
The lively atmosphere and historic weight of Mon Plaisir make it a classic place to eat out in Covent Garden.

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