53 Warren Street,
Fitzrovia,
London,
W1T 5NL
(020) 7388 3628
The ViewLondon Review
Mushu is a new hot concept: wedged in between the sleepy Warren Street and the busy Euston Road, this oriental tapas bar is sure to receive accolades and secure regulars despite being a new player on the scene.
The Venue
Mushu stretches around a corner, with one entrance on the busy and bustling Euston Road, and the other on quiet Warren Street. The clean cut aesthetic is common to both but the difference in atmosphere between the two streets is dutifully taken into account in the décor. The environment is painted light grey, with yellow slashes, and the furniture – contemporary stacked plywood with partial white lamination - is minimal and functional, yet pleasant to the eye. Towards Euston road there are long canteen-style tables with tall stools to share for quick lunches, while the slower Warren Street side has more visual dynamism thanks to low benches and tables for two. In between the two areas, a showcase kitchen, encased in a glass wall, is crisp and tidy in every detail.
The Atmosphere
Mushu fills up for lunch, thanks to the many businesses on both sides, but weekday evenings are picking up fast, with locals trickling in for a relaxed meal in an atmosphere that's hard to dislike. The environment has an element of sterility but the demure service and the subdued music create a delightfully soothing environment.
The Food
Japanese and Chinese specialities mingle effortlessly with Korean elements to create a varied palette of flavours. And the chef is evidently well trained in his trade. The menu is structured as an oriental tapas bar, so you can pick from the many small items (£3.40-£12.20 for sushi, £5.75-£9.20 for dumplings, £2.10-£8.20 for small dishes) and share them. Or you can opt for larger dishes (£7-£9.90) if grazing simply won’t do.
The excellent nasu dengaku is a surprising, cooked aubergine oozing with sweet miso sauce; it's oily and indulgent. The water dumplings – one of Mushu’s specialities - are clearly homemade: the encasing is thicker than usual, and green. The tuna and salmon sashimi is recommended, with slabs that are generous and of the highest quality. The vegetable yakisoka, in comparison, falls slightly flat, but the prawn tempura, featuring what are probably London's largest prawns, is a particularly good dish. Do be lavish with your orders - you won’t regret a higher bill.
The Drink
The drink list will keep Western palates happy, although there are plenty of Oriental options faithful to Mushu’s cuisine. The warm sake (£4.60-£7.90), Asahi Super Dry and Tsing Tao (£3.40) beers are good options to accompany any meal. and you can also add plum wine (£4.30), guava juice (£1.80) and Jasmine flower blossom tea (£2.50). However, there are other otions including pinot grigios, merlots and other wines (£4-£4.65 per glass or £14.90-£18.90 per bottle), a couple of Oriental cocktails (£4.50), soft drinks (£1.80), prosecco and more.
The Last Word
Mushu is a positive example of careful planning. Everything is studied in detail, from the furniture to the food presentation and the well-structured and often innovative menu. To be taken as an example by other start-up venues, this restaurant is set to thrive.
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