nahm

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 2 reviews

Venue Image
The Halkin,
5-6 Halkin Street,
Belgravia,
London,
SW1X 7DJ

0871 971 3433
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byOlivia Greenway28/02/2011
Situated in the corner of Mayfair near Hyde Park Corner, one could be forgiven for thinking that this is just another restaurant in an oasis of five star establishments. Nahm is actually rather special – evidenced by the fact that until this year it was the only Thai restaurant in London with a Michelin star and, under the expert eye of chef David Thompson, delivers food that is both reliable and interesting.

The Venue
If you want to go to a place to be seen, or to see others, it might not float your boat. The restaurant is fairly small, understated and the opposite of consciously flamboyant. If you like a modern look, clean lines, an absence of clutter, a reasonable space between tables and discreet background music so you can actually talk to your guests, you may well love it. Next to the restaurant is a small bar area, similarly simple (some might describe it as a bit bare) but try a cocktail and then perhaps you’ll agree that the proof is indeed in the pudding.

The Atmosphere
Patrons tend to be small groups of friends, couples, or families with teenage children, probably enjoying a celebration. The restaurant is well ordered, staff are attentive and the whole experience is stress-free and relaxing. There is no need to feel rushed; the table feels like it's available all evening.

The Food
Thai food here is fresh, light, cooked simply and full of flavour. From a choice of about seven salads, four soups and three other appetisers, try yam pak: an assortment of Thai vegetables with tamarind, palm sugar and sesame seeds and geng jeut joe - clear vegetable broth with bean curd, fresh corn and Asian greens. The vegetables are lightly blanched so they still hold their crunch. The delicate soup manages to carry a satisfying depth of flavour from the greens without the chef reverting to over salting.

For mains there is pat het bpaa - stir fried assorted wild mushrooms with ginger and spring onions, a triumph of a dish with all the mushrooms tasting different; some earthy, some meaty, some succulent; and pla neung king cheun chai – steamed turbot with ginger and Asian celery. The turbot goes down a treat as it cunningly absorbs the flavours of the ginger and celery. Fresh steamed rice is brought for the table to share but they don’t serve noodles as a separate dish - one supposes it’s the equivalent of expecting a side order of chips in Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. Desserts here are traditional Thai; a shared a portion of kanom klong krang – rice dumplings in coconut cream with crunchy sesame cakes and palm sugar - is an acquired taste.

The Drink
As the bar looks a bit unprepossessing, but clearly punches above its weight, so there is a comprehensive choice in the restaurant to satisfy picky drinkers and a corresponding wine list to keep the most tedious of wine bores happy. As well as Champagne, wines from around the world, by the glass, half bottle or full bottle, the cocktails, aforementioned are imaginative and well mixed.

The Last Word
If you like to enjoy a well-executed meal without a lot of fuss, then Nahm may well be the little secret you have been waiting to discover. But good things don’t come cheap; this is a special occasion place, unless of course, you are a local.
nahm has been reviewed by 2 users

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