New Culture Revolution is a Chinese noodle and dumpling bar serving cheap, hearty meals without artificial additives.

The Venue
The restaurant is two minutes’ walk from Angel tube station, tucked away just off Upper Street on a residential terrace, and it rarely gets busy in the evenings. Styling here is modern, pared-down and simple, with wood chairs, tables and benches. What makes New Culture Revolution a bit different is its emphasis on natural ingredients and cooking methods – and no MSG.

The Atmosphere
New Culture Revolution has a loyal following of Islington locals, who come here alone or in small groups for takeaways or to sit in the small but uncrowded restaurant. Service is quick and efficient. The atmosphere is not exactly buzzing, but it’s a calm, unfussy place, which probably appeals to lunchtime customers as much as those who come here for a hassle-free dinner on their way home from work.

The Food
The menu is based on northern Chinese cooking, with a wide variety of different noodle dishes. The dumplings are worth trying, pan fried or boiled in soup. Rice dishes are also available and prices range from £3 to £5 for starters, £5 for dumplings, and £5 to £8 for a main meal. Portions are generous, and offer excellent value for money.

Tong mein noodle soup with pork dumplings (£5.20) is a warming, satisfying meal in itself made with good-quality wheat noodles, Chinese cabbage, carrots and spring onions. The vegetables are fresh and crunchy, while the pork dumplings are soft and meaty, with a hint of spices and coriander. Revolution Choice Chow Mein is also served as a massive portion of noodles, big king prawns, chunks of chicken and beef. You can choose how spicy you want it but the fried noodles are refreshingly un-greasy, with plenty of mangetout, strong onion slices, beansprouts and carrots. The soy and seasoning are well-balanced so each of the flavours stand out, and the noodles are firm and well-cooked. The rice dishes are a bit more standard fare; char siu pork with Chinese vegetables is way too salty, and the rice is a little dry.

The Drink
The wine list offers twelve red and white wines from around the world, and the prices are good too, ranging from about £10 to £15 for a bottle and about £3 to £5 for a glass. Some wines are, conveniently, also available by the half-bottle, about £8. Asian beers, in bottles or cans, cost £2 to £3, and standard soft drinks are £1.50. Pots of Chinese tea, with a choice of three types, cost £1.50 and are frequently topped up for you. Dragon Well is particularly good, with a fragrant, gently smoked flavour.

The Last Word
New Culture Revolution’s reassuring reliability makes it a great place to stop off for a hassle-free, quiet meal. You’ll leave feeling full - and its emphasis on natural cooking and ingredients makes it no guilty secret.

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