New River Cafe

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Venue Image
271 Stoke Newington Church Street,
Stoke Newington,
London,
N16 9JH

(020) 7923 9842

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byJen Wight31/12/2008
A classic, steamy windowed greasy spoon.

The Venue
This small cafe has huge windows overlooking the lawns of Clissold Park, and can be found at the far end of Stoke Newington Church Street, well away from all the other bars, shops and restaurants. It has dark red awnings over a strip of outdoor seating for sunny days. The red formica tables are surprisingly well spaced; they could – if they had a mind - squeeze another few tables in. Look out for the wooden sign out front, painted to look like a French maid holding a menu.

The Atmosphere
This local's favourite is packed at the weekends and ticks over nicely on weekdays. The burble of pop music from the radio in the kitchen, chatter of students and fluoro-clad workmen blends with the hiss of the hot water urn to create a lively, friendly atmosphere. The fast and efficient staff can be found serving behind the counter, chatting to regulars or dashing from table to table with steaming mugs of tea and plates of egg and chips.

The Food
All the usual suspects. The food is classic greasy spoon, but done well - with breakfasts ranging from about £3 to £6. The bacon is crisp and salty with a hint of fat left on for taste and crunch. The perfectly fried egg, cooked in an oval ring, is thick with crispy edges and dreamy dip-able yolk. You can order sliced white toast or fresh bread, slabs from a poppy seed loaf. As a break from the norm they serve soup, rock cakes and apple pie, the latter levered served from large school dinner style metal trays – all homemade.

The Drink
Chunky mugs – no tiddly cups here – of strong tea and coffee, soft drinks and Ribena. They do have huge selection of herbal teas and Darjeeling - this is Stoke Newington after all.

The Last Word
Fry ups as they should be done - in a great café, with great views.
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