From the plush hotel setting to the food, Nipa is elaborate, sophisticated and luxurious. At no point, though, is its Thai authenticity threatened.

The Venue
Nipa is something of a surprise find, hidden away on the first floor of the plush Royal Lancaster Hotel. If this location is the first suggestion that Nipa isn’t your standard Thai restaurant, then the second must be its holding of a prestigious Thai Select award – a sort of seal of authenticity given by the Thai government to only a limited number of Thai restaurants around the world. The fact that Nipa is a sister restaurant of the original Nipa restaurant set within the Landmark hotel in Bangkok, Thailand makes this London restaurant all the more enticing and intriguing. Dark wood cabinets, elaborate mirrors, low hanging chandeliers and other ornate artefacts adorn the large dining room creating an opulent, colonial feel which successfully bridges the gap between Thai authenticism and Western hotel luxury.

The Atmosphere
Small touches such as flower arrangements and candles on tables, well-heated thick ceramic plates and complimentary prawn crackers ensure the feeling of luxury is maintained throughout, whilst attentive, eager to please staff reinforce this by being constantly to hand and genuinely helpful as well as friendly. The stunning view over Hyde Park is an added bonus.

The Food
The vast menu is split into dish-specific sections such as soups, curries, salads, pan fried dishes, noodle dishes and more. Though this can make choosing courses tricky, staff are on hand to recommend and there are always some set menus, too. Generally, though, the consensus seems to be just pick what you fancy.

Poo Nim (deep fried soft shell crab, £7.50) make a particularly noteworthy starter – they are at once tender on the inside and crispy on the outside and have none of the greasiness that deep-frying might suggest. Kao Krieb (minced chicken dumplings, £6.50) are virtually a meal in themselves. Minced chicken is combined with peanuts and wrapped in thin crepes before being steamed and is accompanied by lettuce leaves, coriander sprigs and whole birds eye chillies. The staff demonstrate how the dumplings should be wrapped with the coriander and a chilli in a lettuce leaf, dipped in the sauce and then eaten. The combination is indeed a winner.

Kai Har Bai Toey (chicken wrapped in pandanus leaves, £11.50) come served with a thick, sweet heavily reduced soy sauce dip, though once unwrapped, the chicken pieces are so tender and infused with pandanus flavour that it is rendered unnecessary. Phad Ma Khuea (aubergine with minced prawns in a spicy black bean and sweet basil sauce) is one of the chef’s recommended dishes and bursts with sweet, salty and aniseed flavours as well as having a good chilli hit. Though the prawns are fairly inconspicuous, the aubergine pieces are succulent and juicy having soaked up all the flavor of the sauce. A side of Som Tam (green papaya salad, £7.50) is fresh and tangy with lashings of lime juice and crushed peanuts whilst an additional steamed jasmine rice is perfectly cooked (£3.50), though both seem expensive for what they are.

A wide range of desserts are available, from simply fresh fruit (£6.50) or ice cream (£6) to more indulgent options such as Kluay Buad Chee (fried bananas with coconut ice cream, £6) which are crisp and sweet, or the interesting Tab Tim Krob (water chestnuts in coconut milk, £6) which is like a sweet coconut soup with candied fruits and nuts. For a lighter option, a selection of sorbets (£6) are also available.

The Drink
A large range of wines, beers and spirits are available by glass or bottle and span a large price spectrum. House red and white wines come in at around £15 per bottle. The white is a refreshing Sauvignon Blanc which cuts through the rich and spicy food perfectly. Citrus-y Singha beer (approx. £3.50) works the same way and is the other recommended choice for accompanying the food and probably the most authentic.

The Last Word
Nipa blends authenticity and sophistication in a way that few Thai restaurants can. Although the cost is higher than many, the high level of quality, setting and service make it good value for money.

View®  Card offers venue information venue map view london review user reviews (2) image gallery (4)