The Sanctum Soho rather self-importantly bills itself as an ‘exclusive and extravagant playpen for the most discerning of guests’, but its restaurant, No.20, is surprisingly down-to-earth. Well, when it comes to the food anyway.

The Venue
Whether or not the hotel is the ‘haven of hedonism’ the owners intended is still up for debate, but it’s certainly lavish. There’s an underground cinema, rooftop bar and paparazzi waiting on the door. Inside No.20 it’s just as plush. The small, low-lit space is filled with crushed velvet booths, gold banquettes and crocodile-skin chairs. Fittingly for somewhere that prides itself on attracting rockstars, the dulcet tones of Otis Redding and Jamie Woon provide the soundtrack. The restaurant was set up by an ex-manager of Iron Maiden after all.

The Atmosphere
Sadly, despite the glitz, the atmosphere doesn’t quite live up to the hype. Sometimes half-empty, the restaurant is very much part of the hotel, rather than its own entity, but it is a welcome break from over-crowded Soho. Thanks to the subtle lighting and spaciously arranged booths, it also feels very private.

The Food
In comparison to the extravagant furnishings, the menu is unexpectedly simple. It’s made up of classic, mostly British dishes and ranges from traditional options like fish and chips to trendy wagyu burgers. This is comfort food at its fanciest. As for the price tag, there’s plenty to suit most budgets, too.

Start with one of the fish dishes: the huge portion of delicate, Gloucestershire smoked salmon and crusty rye toast (£10.50) or the absolutely enormous, spicy tiger prawns (£9.95), which come with a slightly bland lemon remoulade. Expect a similar style to follow; the mains are equally generous. The Jacob lamb cutlets (£18.50) are carefully trimmed and caramelised, served on a light, smoked garlic mash and complemented by a rich, velvety sauce. The wagyu burger (£18) is also sufficiently indulgent, and comes with enough perfectly-battered onion rings to sink a ship. You’d be wise to come hungry.

For pudding (all priced just under £6), try the super-sweet, homemade maple syrup ice cream – it’s fiendishly addictive. The Baileys and orange tiramisu is somewhat less sophisticated, but enjoyable nonetheless.

The Drink
When it comes to the all-important booze, No.20 pulls it out of the bag. The concise, carefully chosen wine list is easy to understand and packed with favourites from the world’s best-known wine regions. There’s also plenty of bubbly and an entire cocktail list devoted to Jack Daniel’s. For a house red, the Fico Grande Sangiovese (a reasonable £18.50) is excellent: sour back cherries on the nose and grippy, Italian tannins. It’s just a shame half the clientele seem content to just knock back pinot grigio whilst picking on a salad.

The Last Word
Jewel-encrusted door handles aside, there’s actually a lot to like about No. 20. The straight-forward menu doesn’t disappoint and despite pretensions, it’s actually relaxed and friendly. Just bring your entourage to fill the other tables.

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