Nobu has an incredible following with the moneyed and celebrity classes, and Nobu Berkeley is the one they go to when they want to be seen. Whether the service stands up to the popularity is sometimes questionable, however.

The Venue
Located on Berkeley Street, this branch of Nobu is easily reached from Green Park tube station, though of course most diners here arrive in a slightly flashier mode of transport. Upon arrival, you’ll be shown first to the ground floor bar, by far the most glamorous area of the venue with swish white and black leather banquettes, gorgeous tree emblem embroidery seemingly stitched right onto the walls, and a buzzy, busy feel. Upstairs the restaurant is more open and simple. There’s still a tree emblem wallpaper down one side of the restaurant, chosen by designer David Collins, and the tables are heavy woods with bamboo and olive green accent pieces. If you’re keen to see how the wonderful food you’re going to eat is created, you can ask to sit at the sushi bar, to the left hand side of the restaurant as you enter, and watch the chefs hand-rolling your soft shell crab roll right in front of you.

The Atmosphere
Nobu Berkeley is a little bit cooler than its older sister on Park Lane – celebrities flock here, including Geri Halliwell, Lily Allen and Jade Jagger. However, the Nobu curse of boring suited and booted businessmen still abound, so don’t be surprised to hear tacky boasting about City bonuses and how fast the sports car goes that’s parked outside. The staff are overly polite, and overly numerous, to the point where the servile nature and the habit of accompanying you everywhere or moving your chair when you go to the bathroom becomes slightly embarrassing. For such a polite bunch, it’s a shame they’re so frequently so inefficient, standing around in groups chatting or seemingly uncertain of whether to spark up conversation with the punters or run off to the kitchen for the next dish. It gets downright irksome and distracting, so best concentrate on your food and try to ignore the distinctly odd staff. There used to be a ridiculous non-booking policy, which has thankfully now been dropped (and with it, the agonising hour-long waits at the bar), so be sure to book as early as possible these days to guarantee getting in on your night of choice.

The Food
Chef and creator of the brand Nobu Matsuhisa may not be involved in the transatlantic outposts of the chain, but his influence is evident on the menu, with all the Japanese fusion creations you would expect.

Start off with some of the sashimi appetisers. Don’t miss out on the fleshy, raw beef (£12) which is served with a hot oil and soy sauce, the several thin slivers of beef taste perfect and rich. Just as well-executed is the sushi, which can make a great appetiser too, with the salmon and egg sushi roll being a highlight, with cold and creamy flavours cutting through the rice. The sushi prices range from £2.50 to £9 per roll.

For main courses, go for something from the wood-fired oven if you fancy something a little more European. The duck breast with hot wasabi salsa is delicious, served in a generously large portion and with a rich, gamey flavour. The hot salsa is best in small doses as it might blow your head off if you tuck in too vigorously! The duck dish costs about £20. It would be wrong to come to Nobu though without someone in your party trying the famous blackened cod. Imitated at every pan-Asian restaurant that has followed in Nobu’s wake, this is the original and best. The secret is that Matsuhisa’s recipe calls for it to be seared in a medium pan with sake, sugar and miso paste, so the surface of the fish quickly turns a dark colour. The fish is meaty and fresh, and this signature dish costs about £25.

Desserts at Nobu are more about flash than substance, although they are sweet and delicious. You won’t need to save room for them though, as they’re pretty tiny for the price! The soy milk brulee is supremely satisfying, as this is one dish that does not need to be served in generous proportions, given that it’s so sweet. It’s served alongside chocolate soil, which sounds pretty disgusting, but is basically just rich, dark chocolate sprinkles, costing £8.

The Drink
Nobu offers a long list of sake and cocktails in the bar before your meal. Sake is an acquired taste, but the cocktails are easy to knock back, in particular the signature Pineapple Martini, costing £10.50. The wine list is lengthy, and unfortunately the staff seem pretty ill-positioned to make firm recommendations. The Billecart-Salmon champagne won’t set you back too much at just £48 for the non-vintage Brut, although if you want to splash out on Cristal, it’s available at £280 (which is oddly cheaper than many London venues). The wine list is actually pretty reasonable too, with an excellent light and refreshing Pinot Blanc Reserve from the Alsace priced at just £29 a bottle.

The Last Word
Nobu Berkeley is glamorous, the food is a truly special experience, and the cocktails and wine list will satisfy any connoisseur’s palate. The staff are the only flaw, they flap about quite uselessly in a display of great manners and poor expertise, so do your best to completely disregard them and focus on the rest of the experience.

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