Providing an unexpectedly European dining experience, kosher, dairy restaurant Novellino makes up for the small menu with its exquisitely prepared dishes, mouthwatering desserts and freshly baked bread.

The Venue
Upon walking into Novellino a scene of extraordinary business greets your eyes. Waiters are rushing from table to table, customers are queuing to purchase breads and pastries from the bakery counter to the left of the entrance. Delicious cheesecakes and chocolate brownies displayed in the glass counter get the tastebuds tingling. The walls are an inconspicuous cream and the space is high-ceilinged and open-plan. Small wooden tables dot the large interior, which is broken up into sections including a raised platform along the back wall holding several larger tables, and a small enclave towards the rear of the restaurant, which is great for big parties. The main seating area is up front, contained on two sides by glass walls where diners can get distracted by passers-by as they wait for their milkshakes. Novellino is a cross between a bakery, cafe and fully-fledged Italian restaurant, and although the view of Golders Green Road from the magnificent windows is less than inspiring, it does lend itself to the overall impression of a trendy, airy and modern eatery.

The Atmosphere
Apart from the hustle and bustle, Novellino’s uncarpeted floors and wooden tables allow the flow of a lot of noise. The acoustics are perfect for a fun lunch with friends, but might be less than intimate on a romantic evening out. The waiters are dressed casually in black and are more than happy to explain the menu and announce the specials. Seated at the tables you can expect to find a varied lot: groups of schoolkids, families, parties of seniors, business colleagues and young couples. Cheerful chatter is what drives the feel of the place, creating a cosmopolitan hub and an informal, relaxed atmosphere.

The Food
One look at the menu will show that it is not particularly lengthy. Further inspection will reveal that it has obviously been compiled carefully and painstakingly, focusing on quality rather than quantity, and making use of a vast array of unusual and interesting ingredients. On offer is a diverse mix of Italian cuisine, fish, and several Oriental dishes. The one item noticeably lacking from the menu is pizza, which, while its absence may deter a few customers, will no doubt prompt others to branch out and try something different.

The starters do not come cheap, averaging at about £8. It is tempting, however, to sample the tuna carpaccio or baked butternut squash and camembert with char-grilled leeks. The Parmiggiana – baked aubergine, mozzarella and parmesan topped with tomato sauce – (£7.80) is deliciously Italian, like a salty, cheesy pizza minus the dough. The portion is not exactly big, but at least it leaves room for the main course. The organic quinoa salad (£8.60) is quite a refreshing alternative to a hot first course and contains several unexpectedly complementary ingredients, including grilled haloumi cheese, blackcurrants, sweet potatoes and dried apricots. The grilled cheese bubbles thickly on your tongue and delicately contrasts with the fresh, fragrant chewiness of the currants and apricots.

The main courses are mostly pasta, with asparagus risotto and sweet potato/spinach ravioli options thrown in for good measure. The roasted tomato and garlic penne (£9.90) comes as a large portion on a spotless white dish, served with optional tomato sauce and parmesan topping. The pepper is crunchy and sweet, although the garlic content is enough to make this a dish to steer clear of on a date. The salmon fettuccini with cream sauce (£10.80) is a warm and savoury choice. The generous flakes of salmon melt in your mouth and the cream sauce is full of flavour. Other dishes include mushroom fettuccini, spaghetti with anchovies, and fresh cod and green vegetable fettuccini. There’s also a pad thai for the stir-fry fiends and a high-priced fish menu, (£18 - £20) which includes crispy tempura cod and a fillet of sea bream grilled with thyme and lemon and served with orange and broad beans sauce.

Novellino homemade bread may cost £3 and is likely to fill you up before the main course arrives, but it is well worth a bite. The crusty wholemeal bread is full of texture and flavour, provided by grains and a touch of seasoning. It is served with olive oil and vinegar, the perfect palate-cleanser. And if you want to save your appetite for the main meal, you can always buy a loaf from the bakery to take home with you.

The dessert menu has the widest choice of all. You can choose fruity, cheesy, ice-creamy or chocolaty. The chocolate fondant (£5.50) is the most expensive dessert, but completely worth it for the sensation of the hot, gooey chocolate centre mixed with vanilla ice cream. The perfectly layered blueberry cheesecake (£4.90) is creamy and rich, but not overly heavy. The tartness of the blueberries offsets the sweetness, and the cookie base gives the cake some substance. Other desserts include pear tart, passion fruit mousse and a chocolate trio cake.

The Drink
The drinks menu is divided into wines – six white and eight red – and spirits. The wines range from £14.50 to £23 for the bottle, with several available by the glass for £4. The Chablis La Chablisienne 2004 is recommended to accompany fish, and there are plenty of Israeli wines on offer, including a Chardonnay Efrat 2006 and Merlot Efrat 2004.

The spirits menu is even more basic, consisting of whisky, vodka, rum, cognac, gin and martini, priced between £3.50 and £5.90. It’s far more exciting to go for a thick and creamy vanilla milkshake, or a hot chocolate, which arrives in a tall glass; hot milk with rich milk chocolate waiting at the bottom.

The Last Word
For a bright, fun meal with friends or family, Novellino offers a wonderful combination of great food and a relaxed, upbeat atmosphere. While the stress levels are low, the prices are not, so make sure you take your time with the menu and choose wisely.

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