Throwing all preconceptions of English cuisine into disarray, the brand new One Blenheim Terrace brings a welcome touch of crazy to St John's Wood.

The Venue
Located just off of NW8's most recognisable street, the iconic Abbey Road, One Blenheim Terrace is the new kid on this posh old block. Inside, the freshly-painted décor blends corporate greys, polished wood floors and crisp white linen with snappy retro colours. Satsuma-hued banquettes nuzzle against white walls, while a striped technicolour frieze decorates the back. A light and bright glass-roofed area is perfect for lunchtime dining, as is the smart hedge-lined outdoor 'cigar terrace'.

The Atmosphere
NW8 is one of London's smartest postcodes and so a smattering of well-dressed luvvies is very much expected. It's equally as accommodating to larger groups of friends as well as romantic couples though, and the lunch menu (remarkable value at £13 for two courses) brings in professionals in their droves. The staff are friendly and efficient, even if they are still getting to grips with parts of the inventive menu. Chef Patron, Ed Shaerf, brings his ex-Ivy expertise along with stacks of charm and a tremendous vision for the food of our youth.

The Food
From a menu straight out of Life on Mars comes some real knock-your-socks-off grub. An amuse-bouche of jacket potato consommé with a sour cream and chive foam is a brilliant little thing of spud-essence. Other quirky starters include lobster thermidor (£9.50), a dish of lobster ravioli in a light, creamy sauce decorated with a shake of delicate, colourful leaves. The hearty Scotch egg and sausage roll (£8.95) is a tongue-in-cheek nod to our 70s picnic favourites. Confit of duck replaces the traditional pork, before being wrapped around a quail's egg and fried, whilst the duck and girolle sausage roll is similarly tasty but slightly too dry. The quenelle of potted duck is delicious though, with the cheeky addition of fresh piccalilli and a very good brown sauce adding a deliciously different dimension.

And the mains are just as exciting. Venison Wellington (£24.95) with hotpot, a faggot and juniper berry gravy just screams with flavour and the meat so tender it practically begs to be eaten with a spoon. As for the fish and chips (£19.95) be forewarned: this dish will ruin Friday night fish suppers for the rest of your life. First to the table comes the very essence of the chippy: a malt vinegar air which makes your mouth water. A slab of finely roasted cod, perched on a slick of warm tartare sauce, is topped with a wig of beer-batter curls and accompanied by a trio of marrowfat pea croquettes. Finally, its crowning glory is hiding amongst the vinegary bubbles - the perfect pickled (quail's) egg. It's a stupendous dish.

And just when you thought the food couldn't get any better, the chocolate pudding (£7.50) arrives with an espresso jelly and a wholly bizarre (and fantastically clever) cigar and cognac ice cream. A dish so cool it should come with a smoking jacket. The cheese trolley (£7.50) offers a good selection of fragrant fromage, accompanying jellies and a neat little tobacco tin of crackers.

The Drink
The wine list offers a nice selection of vino from around the world. The house white is a Pays d'Oc from France and at a reasonable £5 for the glass or £17.50 for the bottle, it's well-worth sloshing back. For something with a little more character try the Picpoul de Pinet from Languedoc at £5.50/£21. Along with a gesture from the Americas and Lebanon there's a nod to our own wines too, with a nice Bacchus from the Denbies Estate in Surrey (£8.50/£33). The reds are equally as well-chosen with a good, traditional Croze-Hermitage at £38 right up to a celebratory St Julien Bordeaux at £360 a pop.

The Last Word
For fun, creative food which will take your breath away, head to St John's Wood. And book now while you still can as One Blenheim Terrace is certainly one to watch. Highly recommended.

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