Islington’s Upper Street heaves with restaurants of every culinary persuasion, so competition is fierce. It must be even tougher for a venue tucked away down a little side alley to survive, let alone prosper, yet Pizzeria Oregano does so with ease, thanks to its authentic wood-fired pizzas and speciality fish pastas.

The Venue
Upper Street is a trendy, busy, north London thoroughfare awash with high-end clothing, kitchen and gift shops, bars of both the coffee and alcoholic variety, and endless dining possibilities including upmarket burgers, Indian, Japanese, Middle Eastern, modern European and more. Up an alley off this main drag, you may just spot a neon sign promising pizza. Investigate further, and you’ll find a rather utilitarian, brightly-lit room (perhaps how an American diner would look if American diners were Italian) with white walls and clothless, blue-topped tables, a la Carluccio’s.

The Atmosphere
Pizzeria Oregano is something of a locals’ secret and is usually reassuringly crowded with relaxed, dressed-down couples and groups. It can get pretty noisy thanks to the carpet-less floors and curtain-less windows which appear to be de rigueur at all levels of London dining these days. The staff are friendly, if not overly effusive, and efficient, and can actually answer questions about the dishes.

The Food
A complimentary bowl of green olives heavily spiked with rosemary is the perfect aid to menu perusal. From a dozen typically Italian starters (which arrive with slightly indecent haste) like calamari fritti, insalata tricolore and bruschetta, plus a couple of weekly specials, melanzane indorate – slices of aubergines and mozzarella, crumbed and fried, £4.95 – is hard to fault. The outside is crisp but not overcooked and impeccably grease-free which is not always the case with this dish, whilst the inside is gloriously squidgy with plenty of stringy cheese. It couldn’t be yummier. From a selection of bread and salad sides, the classic rocket and parmesan (£4.45) surprises with its huge, wafer-thin slices of cheese. There’s plenty of quality greenery beneath which is only very lightly dressed. Oil and vinegar arrive unbidden, however, so you can liven it up with a DIY dressing, just as you would on holiday in Rome.

It takes a while to wade through the main course options; there are 13 pastas plus a risotto of the day, 18 pizzas, two calzone (folded pizzas), three fish dishes and two meat. As if that were not enough to cause a paralysis of indecision, no fewer than nine daily specials also ask to be considered. Oregano prides itself on its wood-fired pizzas, and a vast amici (£8.95) certainly pleases with its charred edge, soft middle, copious mozzarella, tasty ham, punchy sun-dried tomatoes and scattering of rocket. The restaurant is also proud of its fish pastas of which tagliatelle with gamberoni and zucchini (one of the weekly specials at £10.95) is another hit. Both the pasta and the finely diced courgettes retain their bite, and there are plenty of big, juicy prawns. There’s hardly any sauce - the three quality, perfectly cooked components are simply allowed to shine.

There are nine puds, all at a modest £4, plus eight ice cream options (£4 - £4.50). Hot chocolate pudding with vanilla ice cream arrives suspiciously quickly and surprises by being disc-shaped rather than a little domed pudding. It is pleasingly chocolaty, however, with a correctly liquid centre. Vanilla and coffee ice cream comes with crushed meringue and Baileys poured over. It seems readymade except for addition of the liqueur, although that would be the case at most modest trattorias back in Italy, of course, and doesn’t stop it providing a delicious, light but indulgent conclusion to the meal.

The Drink
A succinct, modest and wholly Italian wine list features six whites, one sparkler (a prosecco, naturally), seven reds and a rose, from £13.50 to £22.90. Oregano is to be hugely commended for offering every single one by the glass. From the whites, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC ‘Zero’, Collesfrisio (£5.70/£20.90) refreshes despite its tropical fruit flavours and lasts well on the taste buds. Montepulciano, also Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC ‘Zero’, Collesfrisio, has the big, bold, wild berry, jammy character you would expect. Both, but especially the red, would benefit from being served in larger glasses; they arrive full to the brim, so swirling to release the aromas is a no-no until the wine is half drunk. Tap water is provided unadorned and without demur, albeit in so small a jug that top-ups have to be sought.

The Last Word
If you’ve visited Italian cities, you probably found some of your favourite meals were taken not at the big, flashy joints on the main strip with their gleaming white napery, obsequious service and high prices, but at small, family-run establishments hidden down narrow side streets which you sought out because they’d been recommended. So it is with Islington’s Pizzeria Oregano whose generous portions of authentic, lovingly-made food guarantee full stomachs and satisfied smiles. Three courses and half a bottle of wine will set you back about £30 which is no steal in a casual, wipe-top table venue, but no dearer than the chains which attempt the same deal but will never feel so real.

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