55 Marylebone High Street,
London,
W1U 5RB
0872 148 2768
The ViewLondon Review
Conran’s Michelin-starred Italian restaurant made waves when it opened and continues to be trendy.The VenueOrrery has one of London’s most unusual bar lounges. Tiny, intimate, cosy, yet eclectic with its furniture and paintings, this enclave is a delightful place to begin a meal with fab pink champagne (the white is wonderful too) served with some of London’s most deliciously roasted almonds (hard to find these days…). Or come back later to knock down cocktails, if not head up to the enchanting little terrace top. The restaurant looks like some ultra modern take on ‘60s decor and contrasts interestingly with the charming little church garden opposite the street - unmissable view from the glass-encased facade.
The AtmosphereThe service is wonderful and the garrulous Italian manager is an absolute charmer. Count an hour just to chat to him. You would think that Orrery is the sort of place for the hip crowd, but quite a few distinguished clients have been spotted romancing or reveling as well.
The FoodUnfortunately, the food can be disappointing and you might even wonder why the restaurant has a Michelin star. True, creations can sound innovative and adventurous, but the food is often stodgy and greasy and portions indelicate, something not expected in a Michelin-starred restaurant. The elaborate sounding pea soup was bland, unbalanced and tasted like it had some out of a can. Let’s hope it depends on the day. However, you can’t go wrong with the great variety of bread and the impressive cheese trolley, one of London’s finest. This can be a meal in itself and the well-informed staff will help you to choose from the sprawling selection.
The DrinkThere’s a superb champagne selection and the wines are interesting, too. The sommelier matches each course with a fine selection of interesting wines, notably Hungarian, Czech and German. A refreshing chance to discover something different.
The Last WordWonderful bar lounge to tuck yourself away in bad weather to sip champagne or to get some sun and fun on the terrace in good weather. But if you’re a gourmet, don’t expect to be swooning, except perhaps when the bill comes.