A visit to Osteria Appennino can reaffirm a lust for life - with hearty Italian fare it’s certain to leave an indelible mark.

The Venue
Located a hop, skip, and a jump away from Liverpool Street Station, Osteria Appennino is easy to find, on a little side side street called Devonshire Row. Pleasing yet unfussy decor gives the place a homely feel. Nice murals with authentic songs playing in the background complete an ambience of old Italy, and simple wooden tables and chairs require no airs and graces. There are two levels of seating, with the street-level open plan while the downstairs area offers a more intimate setting.

The Atmosphere
The restaurant has a lively, jovial buzz to it upon entering. The street-level dining area exudes chatty conversations which are quite infectious. There’s a cosy ambience inside, perfect for cold winter evenings, but lots of windows overlooking the side street give it a light and airy feel ideal for fine summer days and people-watching. The clientele is a mixture of City workers and Italians. Even though it’s quite busy, there’s no sense of undue rushing around by competent, friendly and efficient staff. A gaggle of chefs can be seeing preparing the dishes, adding a visual aspect to the dining experience.

The Food
Hearty traditional Italian fare is on offer here, and the menu has a good choice of starters, pastas, pizzas and plenty of meat-orientated mains. Portions are all very generous so if you’re not too hungry it might be a good idea to share. The lobster soup is just divine. It instantly reaches out to the senses with its alluring aroma and bold colour. Tasting is a real pleasure, being rich enough to hold the strong seafood flavour without being too creamy and there’s a nice quantity of crab and lobster. The consistency of the soup is just right as well, not too thick or thin, just very moreish. Another starter, the buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes and basil is just as memorable. The mozzarella is obviously of the freshest and finest quality. The creamy texture and flavour of the mozzarella disintegrates on the palate with the minimum of asking. The fresh basil leaves really intensify the full flavour from the cheese, whilst the plum tomatoes sparkle in colour and taste very fresh. A little dressing of balsamic and olive oil works well.

The steak, served up with green peppercorn sauce and sauteed potatoes, warrants maximum attention. Medium rare, it slices through to reveal a succulent yet pleasing mildly pink hue. The steak is marooned in a sea of light peppercorn sauce, which is plentiful and undercuts the meat perfectly without taking anything away from the real star on show. The sautéed potatoes have the merest hint of rosemary and like the sauce, plays a super supporting role to the main event. The wild rocket is a little superfluous, considering the already peppery dish.

The dessert menu has a good choice of Italian favourites. The panna cotta is just the right size after a big meal. Very light in texture, not too sweet and with a subtle hint of vanilla, the dessert freshens up the palate, mind and spirit. Presentation-wise everything dished up looks perfectly fine without any kind of over-the-top artistry. A three course meal with a glass of wine will set you back around £35 - £40.

The Drink
Really good choice of wines, including a number of fine wines for connoisseurs. Liqueurs, cognac, brandies and Italian dessert wines also available. The Chianti is very lively and fiery and seems to explode into action. The scent of berries is evident in the wine, and there’s a persistent aftertaste which grows in intensity. All in all, a good compliment for dark or rich meats.

The Last Word
The ultimate test of a fine meal is the lasting impression it leaves on you, and you’ll leave Osteria Appennino wishing you could return to its charms.

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