39 King Street,
Covent Garden,
London,
WC2E 8JS
0871 971 3193
The ViewLondon Review
Traditional French food is probably the sole style of cooking to escape the British cookery “renaissance” relatively unscathed. We all know that the word “renaissance” isn’t really appropriate anyway, just as “architectural awakening” wouldn’t be a particularly accurate description of the Changing Rooms/DIY bandwagon jumping spree that seems to have become the staple material of daytime and early evening TV.
The most obvious manifestations of our newfound culinary awareness are a reluctance to stick to old-fashioned recipes, a general desire to embrace as many international styles as possible, and an exotic ingredient addiction. Trad French cooking (and especially brasserie style cuisine) isn’t really compatible with durian fruit, lemongrass or Sichuan pepper. For want of a better example, it would be like trying to play Grand Theft Auto on an Enigma machine – foolish, expensive and probably illegal.
As a result of all this, it was very relieving to find a central London restaurant that hadn’t been swallowed up by an Icelandic/Malaysian fusion chain, but instead was offering old-fashioned French food at sensible prices. I say old fashioned, but I probably just mean dishes that are based on a traditional style, rather than a stylistic whim.
The Palm Court Brasserie is close to the centre of Covent Garden, and as such probably relies in part on passing trade. However, given the number of theatres and cinemas on surrounding streets (as well as the obvious shopping potential) I expect that a good proportion of customers are seasoned regulars. Seeing as last orders are 12.45am, it’s clear that the late-night market is alive and well.
The menu covers most of the favourites you would expect, plus a few Italian options – presumably in case Sir Steve Redgrave pops in for an evening carbo-loading! Daily specials range from braised lamb shank to Beef Wellington, and there is a very reasonably priced set menu (2 courses for £10, 3 for £12).
I started with chicken liver and foie gras parfait, which was served with toast (possibly toasted brioche, though it was difficult to tell) and onion marmalade. A cold starter wouldn’t be my usual choice on a bitterly cold evening, but the parfait (paté would have been more accurate a description!) was rich and really rather good. I doubt there was a huge quantity of fois gras in it, but it was tasty nonetheless.
Duncan chose cod and salmon fishcakes, which were mercifully free of any Thai accoutrements! Instead, tartar sauce formed the sole accompaniment, and the dish was all the better for it.
I followed with pan-fried peppered venison, which was the Thursday special. This was enjoyably tender, but there was a slight confusion of flavours. Actually, maybe not confusion of flavours – perhaps the accompanying red cabbage and juniper jus was just a little strong. Juniper and game do go well together, but maybe this time the juniper was a touch too assertive? Or could it have been that the cabbage wasn’t sweet enough? Anyway, it wasn’t far out.
Duncan chose roast sea bass, which came with a saffron mash and red pepper salsa. The trouble with roasting fish such as sea bass (or roasting fish in general come to that) is that it’s so easy to overcook them. If they’re not overcooked, then often the skin is crispy and the flesh undercooked. I thought it looked a tiny bit overdone, but was quickly assured that it was fine, and that the mash and salsa complimented the fish admirably.
The dessert menu was somewhat daunting, in that most of the treats on offer were quite plainly going to be considerably calorific. I chickened out with a trio of sorbets, which suited my appetite just fine. Duncan was a bit more daring, and chose the crème brulee. A tap with the spoon confirmed the quality of the caramelised surface, and an exploratory poke, scoop and mouthful established that this particular brulee was up to standard. This was followed by a pair of espressos, which were just right.
Given its Covent Garden location, the Palm Court Brasserie was excellent value, with the food weighing in at around £35 for two. Together with a couple of beers, a bottle of house white (a pleasant enough number from Puglia) and the coffees, it came to a touch over £50. If you’re after a reliable pre or post theatre restaurant, or just somewhere to fill up during a shopping sortie, I’d seriously consider this place.