Food sailing on tradition that's on a hit-or-miss route in a vessel that tries to play it safe.

The Venue
Unlike the ancient maritime district of southern Anatolia (the western peninsula of Asia that today forms the greater part of Turkey) it is named after, Pamphylia is perched atop the gentrifying neighbourhood of Muswell Hill, London. Located within the surroundings of a busy bus interchange area, the easiest, and possibly only (unless you possess enough stamina to walk), way to get to Pamphylia is to hop on a bus. Fifteen minutes and two hills away from the Finsbury Park station is a small but spacious world framed by dark woods, brown-bricked walls, colourful Turkish and Souk lanterns, and the aroma of Mediterranean spices.

The Atmosphere
A full-length glass exterior affords a peek into the warm and snug chamber of this typically decorated Middle Eastern restaurant; soft lights beam from the colourful lamps and the crevices in the walls that hold tarnished silver teapots while efficient servers drift almost unnoticed through the tables, pausing conversations only to ask for directions. It is probably Pamphylia's typicality that draws both couple diners and working-class groups who like to revel in routine. On a Thursday night, Pamphylia is hardly a port, but active enough to get by.

The Food
Pamphylia's dishes are mostly classic Middle Eastern fare. There are dishes however, like the pidde, that are largely unknown. The pidde, according to Pamphylia, is based on a recipe that dates back thousands of years. This Anatolian dish is essentially a boat-shaped pizza without the tomato sauce base. Although traditional, the piddes at Pamphylia take on contemporary names, like the red-blooded "Meat House" (lamb cubes, mushroom and green pepper - £5.25), and the ironic "Fat One" (a heavily-salted folded pidde (like a calzone) that holds a thin layer of pastrami, spicy beef pepperoni and mozarella - £4.90). At £2.75 to £5.25, these modest-looking packets of dough are the most economical main dishes on the menu.

That is not to say it is not worth the extra for the Albondigas (£3.95 as appetizer, £7.95 as main). The difference in prices are justified: all the basic, and essential, tastes are covered in this dish of tame (not spicy like the menu states) chewy meat balls and mushrooms, roasted in a mildy sweet and tangy pomegranate sauce and served with a couple of pickled Turkish chillies. The Lamb Delight (slow oven-cooked clay pot casserole with lamb cubes, aubergine, potato, pepper, tomato, garlic, celery & leek - £7.95) however is not as intricate or well-rounded.

The Drink
The affordable wine list is less fetching when its dull bottle of house red (£10.95) fails to impress. Try the more expensive bottles or just order soft drinks instead.

The Last Word
One can always fall back on the atmosphere and decor of this archetypal Middle Easten restaurant in London serving (mostly) standard fare. Good for a predictable meal out.

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