Take a trip down SW3's Draycott Street for some good old-fashioned Chelsea glamour.

The Venue
Sitting chic on Draycott Street, the relatively enfant Papillon comfortably nudges shoulders with famed restaurants, Joe's and Daphne's. The interior is nothing less than beautiful, with dramatic high ceilings and elegant arch windows to let you see and be seen. A standard palette of chestnut, eau de nil and stark white linen have been sensibly used which is set off by tasteful designer lighting and huge arrays of fresh spring flowers. The dining room has a formal air about it, which is then diffused by the streak of pale olive banquette arcing across the centre of the room. The curtained off private dining area, The Patio, seats 18 and opens out to a tiny garden terrace.

The Atmosphere
Papillon is very much a Chelsea establishment where polite conversation and discreet footsie rules. The clientele are either well-heeled local residents or those with more than a whiff of celebrity about them. The soft music and subtle lighting is completely unobtrusive as are the charming and attentive waiting staff.

The Food
The food at Papillon is distinctive as much by its simplicity as by its generosity. Typically French entrees include a terrine of foie gras, snails baked in garlic butter and a steak tartare. Enjoying foie gras is the guiltiest of pleasures, and here the terrine is served with slivers of hot crisp toast and a sharp quince jelly, an almost indecent treat but for depth, texture and flavour it's one to be savoured. The Jerusalem artichoke soup is also a worthy starter. Dip through the melted butter glistening on top to the glory beneath, a smooth, light puree with a welcome bite of paprika-y chorizo and thin stems of trompettes that make this soup burst with flavour.

Although the menu is not extensive, there are four fish, six meat and a couple of vegetarian dishes on offer. Papillon adheres to the basic palates of land or sea. The double fillet of pan-fried sea bass has a crisp skin which gives each mouthful a slightly smoky taste, and is served on a warm confit of buttered leeks. Sides of garlicky green beans and hand-cut French fries are probably unnecessary but wholly welcome and very tasty additions. From the land, the fillet of beef is a simple yet exceptional dish. Cooked rare, the cut is as tender as a calf's belly and served with a rich pepper sauce and a handful of crisp French fries.

For dessert, again less is more. The warm chocolate fondant is a great example of a popular dish. Served simply with a smear of chocolate and a curl of ice cream, this plump pillow of chocolate pud is so delicious it requires a minutes silence to enjoy it. The Liegeois is also high on the choc-o-meter, chocolate ice cream, rich chocolate sauce and cream served in a glass tumbler and although delicious, is still £8 for ice cream sundae.

The early bird set menu is available between 6pm and 7pm and offers great value at £14.50 for two courses or £16.50 for three. Dishes include mussels, saffron lasagne followed by pan-fried gurnard with a tomato socca. Desserts (and for an extra £2 you would be foolish not too) include a rich chocolate ganache with fueilletine praline and a pannacotta with a strawberry confit.

The Drink
A restaurant with a good sommelier is certainly a wonderful thing and Papillon does not disappoint. The wine list is wise and varied, from a smidge under £20 and running swiftly into the hundreds. There are a few good examples of French, Italian and Spanish wines all sitting around the £30 - £60 mark. The Bourgogne Les Setille is a rich and buttery white which matches the lightness of the fish perfectly, whereas the Tuscan red, Barco Reale Di Carmignano, has more guts bringing out the iron-y flavour in the meatier dishes.

The Last Word
A visit to Papillon is an elegant affair. Glamorous enough to be ultra-special, but unpretentious enough to offer simple, well-executed dishes at Chelsea prices. Recommended.

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