Centre Point,
103 New Oxford Street,
London,
WC1A 1DD
(020) 7420 2900
The ViewLondon Review
A former members’ club, Paramount is now open to the public, offering Londoners a spectacular – and surprisingly tranquil – view of the capital.
The Venue
Paramount is the restaurant and bar atop the Centre Point building on Tottenham Court Road. Despite the construction-filled area and slightly confusing entrance, first impressions of the actual building are good, from the strict security to the express lifts that whisk you up to the 32nd floor. Once you step out of the lift, the large copper bar makes an impressive statement. Large floor to ceiling windows sweep from the bar area at the front to the restaurant area at the rear. The decor is fine – quite simple but trendy and modern – but the star of the show is undoubtedly the view. It really is amazing, and if you can’t get enough of it you can head up one more floor to the romantic, atmospheric viewing gallery for a post-dinner cocktail.
The Atmosphere
Being so high up, above the car horns, sirens and shouts of the capital’s streets below, is surprisingly quiet. It’s easy to get used to constant noise and the lack of it is a pleasant surprise that might take a few minutes to notice. Friendly, helpful service keeps up the tranquil, easygoing atmosphere and the clientele is a relaxed – although impeccably dressed and presumably high-powered – group of locals.
The Food
Paramount offers breakfast, lunch and dinner along with a separate bar menu. The prices on the a la carte menu are high, but given that this used to be a members’ club a £23.50 rib-eye steak seems par for the course. A starter of double baked Roquefort souffle (£9.50) is light and delicate, a good consistency with a rich taste of cheese. On the plate is a swirl of beetroot puree, candied nuts and cubes of beetroot, plus a little onion tart in the corner which is quite sweet, with a nicely made pastry. The confit of lamb shoulder with chorizo (£9.75) is clearly slow cooked, very rich and tender with a slight sweetness that’s echoed in the smooth butternut squash puree. A coddled hen’s egg is a creative alternative to mixing in butter to the puree and the chorizo adds bite and texture to the dish – this works well, as otherwise the combination of ingredients would be too soft on the palate.
For mains, fillet of halibut with mussels and clams (£19.50) are poached in a ginger court-bouillon broth that keeps the dish delicately flavoured. The generous portion of halibut and accompanying mussels and clams justifies the dish's price tag. The trio of pork with celeriac puree and fondant potato comes in at £17, but it’s also good value as it’s more like a quartet of pork. The dish includes a ball of ham hock – fried, almost like a scotch egg – on a bed of apple puree, plus slices of black pudding and rings of baked apple. Another component, the pork belly, is slightly too fatty and soft but the small triangle of pork cheek is very tender, braised in a rich sweet sauce and topped with a crisp rasher of streaky bacon. On the top of the plate are little roundels of potato on a celeriac puree. Puddings range from £6.75 (a trio of ice cream and sorbet) to £11.50 (a cheeseboard) but dishes like walnut tart, glazed lemon pudding and banana parfait come in at about £10 each.
The Drink
The cocktails are also expensive at £11 to £13 but perhaps worth it just for the chance to sip them and gaze out at the view. The ECG (short for English Country Garden) is made with gin, homemade rose syrup, lemon juice and apples and has a flowery, sugary taste. It comes served in an old fashioned Champagne glass, sprinkled with velvety rose petals, and looks like pink lemonade. The Tommy’s Margarita is also recommended, a potent concoction of tequila, lime and agave nectar. Wines start at £6 a glass and £21 a bottle, and dessert wines and Champagnes are also available.
The Last Word
If you can afford to treat yourself to an impressive meal with a view to match, Paramount is worth it. The prices may be high but so is the quality – and, of course, the restaurant itself.
Paramount Restaurant has been reviewed by 8 users