10 Charlotte Street,
London,
W1T 2LT
0872 148 3027
The ViewLondon Review
Italian restaurants are ten a penny in our great capital, but if you’re after something special then you need to be highly selective.
There are so many places claiming to offer the most authentic this, the most wood fired that, it’s a veritable minefield.
Luckily if you’re after the best Italian food going you don’t have to pay through the nose at the River Café, or wait 18 months for a table at Fifteen. Indeed why bother with Jamie O’s place at all when you can be cooked for by his mentor?
Gennaro Contaldo is the consummate chef’s chef. It’s well-known in foodie circles that chefs on their days off tend to flock to his restaurant in droves. His approach is uncompromising, but the menu is still incredibly accessible. After a successful party there a while back, I decided to return for dinner.
Situated in Charlotte Street, Passione doesn’t advertise its character with faux tratoria decorations or opera singing waiters. The frontage is fairly low key, and the decoration pleasantly subtle.
The menu is mostly made up of the kind of dishes that are impossible to choose between. Ben started with Smoked Breast of Duck which came with pear and wild rocket. The duck was stunning – quite unusual, but delicious, especially alongside the cool, fresh sweetness of the pear.
I opted for Bresaola which arrived with parmesan and rocket. Not the most original choice, but a sound one. I followed that with one of Gennaro’s signature dishes, Rabbit with rosemary and sautéed potatoes. Rich and satisfying, I was very impressed.
Ben’s Aubergine and Mozzarella filled Gnocchi Parcels were wonderful – stylishly put together, and delicately flavoured. Seriously good.
We missed out on pudding, instead choosing to enjoy the rest of a bottle of Barolo, and then some sublime espresso. Passione is without doubt in the top three of London Italian restaurants – miss it out at your peril!
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