Hotel Verta,
Bridges Court,
Battersea,
London,
SW11 3BE
(020) 7801 3500
The ViewLondon Review
Seclusion and sophistication reign supreme at the decadent Patrisey Restaurant, housed within the modern Hotel Verta in a secret corner of Battersea.
The Venue
Perched on the Thames adjacent to Battersea’s heliport, the Patrisey Restaurant sits within the glamorous Hotel Verta and takes some seeking out. A playground for fine dining, Patrisey takes the same name Anglo-Saxons gave to this stretch of Battersea and its out-of-the-way location makes for a peaceful venue that’s brimming with elegance. The eclectic contemporary design and classical touches embraced within the hotels décor extend to the restaurant, which glitters with sparkling table settings, glossy surfaces and an eye-catching metallic fretwork. Cream upholstered chairs nestle up to immaculate tables – choose a prime location by the floor to ceiling windows with superb views over the Thames or face the open kitchen to watch the chefs expertly craft your meal.
The Atmosphere
Refined yet unassuming, you won’t see boisterous crowds or hoards of fans at Patrisey. Not only because the hotel is new and tricky to find even with a map, but because it offers opulent, peaceful dining that is best suited to special occasions, well-heeled foodies or business travellers. It is a romantic setting where you won’t be disturbed, except by the impeccably well-dressed, engaging and polite staff.
The Food
The enormous menu embraces classical dishes presented in a fresh, inviting way. Although the sight of prawn cocktail, lobster thermidor and trifle may conjure up visions of a nightmarish 80s dinner party, here they are executed in a contemporary style with modern flavours and presentation.
The prawn cocktail is flamboyantly presented and is a sizeable starter at £8. Succulent shrimps slathered in a delicately creamy sauce sit in an intricately designed glass on a bed of curly leaves of dressed lettuce – a fresh, enticing take on this classic. The double baked goats’ cheese soufflé (£7.50) is not as impressive – the spongy, cheesy parcel is quite heavy with the flavour of the cheese and, disappointingly, lacks an ooze factor.
For mains, there is an almost overwhelming choice, with multiple options of fish, meat, grilled meats, and a delightfully large vegetarian section. The French influence sneaks in here with chateaubriand au poivre, lobster thermidor and truffled macaroni amongst a flurry of impressive European dishes.
The aromatic tarragon gnocchi (£15.50) is sensational with mouthwateringly fluffy homemade parcels of potato coated in a light glazed cheese sauce punctuated with juicy, herby cherry tomatoes. Baked lobster thermidor (£19.50) is meaty and flavourful and the brilliant red shell topped with a cheesy crust encases chunks of juicy white flesh that is complemented by crunchy celeriac on the side.
The relatively expensive prices here are justified by the genteel ambience, five-star service, impeccable presentation and top-class flavours, using sustainable meat and fish, and that’s even before you get to the enviable pudding menu.
British classics abound in the desserts with Eton mess, sherry trifle, posset and sticky toffee pudding all tempting options. Competing with the chocolate fondant as the most special of them all, the pear tarte tatin with clotted cream is divine with lightly caramelised, tender pears encased in a buttery pastry.
The Drink
A sommelier will guide you through the enchanting wine list, a connoisseur’s mix of New World and Old World bottles. The young house Chardonnay is suitable even if you usually shy away from the grape – it’s a 2009 vintage that hasn’t been too heavily oaked so is quite light and crisp, the perfect match for the seafood or vegetarian dishes. Prices lean more towards the hefty side, with majority of bottles priced £20 and up. There are of course beers, spirits and liqueurs to choose from, and fabulously rich and fragrant coffee to round off the meal.
The Last Word
While we all won’t be arriving via the neighbouring heliport, Patrisey gives you the opportunity to drink, dine and devour in extravagance, if only for a night.
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