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The Londoner's Guide to London
30 August 2008
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Pearl Liang Restaurant

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8 Sheldon Square,
Paddington,
London,
W2 6EZ

0871 971 5679 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byJodie McMullen20/02/2007


Pearl Liang will make you desert your current dim sum haven in favour of the freshest food and chic surroundings.

The Venue
Creator’s Humphrey Lee and Paul Ngo, the inspired chef from Bayswater’s Mandarin Kitchen, have spent years watching the popularity of Queensway’s Little China. They’ve now taken this wisdom and planted it in the midst of the up and coming Sheldon Square.

Don’t be fooled into thinking this is just another Chinese restaurant, because it is anything but. It’s set out in such a way that you can come in with your Friday night pals, sink some exotic cocktails in their trendy bar, and then dine in the calming environment tucked within. Think E&O, on the water, without the desperate to be seen, Notting Hill crowd.

The Atmosphere
As you enter the atmospheric Pearl Liang you will be overcome by the sheer size of it. Surprisingly however, it feels more boutique than large restaurant. Humphrey has opted for mood lighting, chill out music, and has been brave enough to steer clear of the traditional red chair and white tablecloth look favoured by most traditional Chinese establishments. Huge pink leather sofas sit alongside the tables, accompanied by large designer chairs with arm rests which fit snugly into the walls. The toilet is even cleverly hidden behind a wall of designer wallpaper. Lee sourced most of the interior from his homeland, China, and the result is both comfortable and aesthetically pleasing.

There are two adjoining rooms separated by gently smoked, transparent glass, and housing a plasma TV are ideal for parties, business meetings, weddings, or simply a big night out. The staff are knowledgeable, enthusiastic and always on hand to top up your jasmine tea, or to tell you the origins of your meal.

The Food
Pearl Liang offers exactly what the other dim sum restaurants in London are trying to duplicate. Trouble is, dim sum is meant to be freshly prepared each day and cooked within hours. Most do not do this. Paul Ngo however, makes it his business to do so and the results are worth every extra bit of effort. You can actually hear the crunch of the fresh vegetables within the steamy hot dumplings - which for once do not stick to the bottom of the bamboo baskets. They are also super sized dumplings, gob stoppers in a world of miniature servings.

An extensive menu caters for all - even the most notoriously fussy vegetarian. The steamed spinach vegetable dumpling and fried pork buns are the house specialities. Highlighting their unique understanding of customers needs, at Pearl Liang, although the dim sum is served from 12pm-5pm daily, if you have a hankering for it and want it for dinner instead, you can pre-order and they will hold some aside for you. The menu isn't just dedicated to dim sum though and the other dishes are of an equally high calibre.

The Drink
Dip into the over indulgent wine list, or take your pick from seemingly every cocktail imaginable, from a Latin Confusion to a Lychee Martini. Beer is the perfect partner for dim sum however, and you can choose between Tsing Tao or Tiger. If you are in for the traditional experience, then their bottomless Jasmine Tea will hit the spot.

The Last Word
The numerous Chinese regulars are clear proof of how truly great the dim sum is at Pearl Liang. When it comes to authenticity, culinary wizardry and great value for money, this restaurant is head and shoulders above the competition.
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