It’s not just the menu that has an Italian flavour at this north west London favourite: the generous portions and the genuine warmth of the staff add to Mediterranean trattoria feel of Philpotts Mezzaluna. Of course, prices are more London than small town Tuscany but it’s still good value, and the perfect place for a relaxed evening of surprisingly sophisticated food.

The Venue
In 2000, proprietor David Philpott and his business partner Alex Ross bought this double shop-fronted restaurant on an inoffensive stretch of the Finchley Road in the area between Hampstead and Golders Green known as Childs Hill. It was previously called Mezzaluna, as in the rather scary instrument for chopping herbs. David added his name to create the somewhat quirky moniker. A modest reception area leads to a sky blue and khaki dining room of 60 covers. For a moment, one wonders why the room is decorated with large canvasses of iconic entertainers, then the penny drops: they all have an Italian connection, hence Godfather Marlon Brando and Italian-American music superstars Madonna and Dean Martin, amongst others.

The Atmosphere
On busy Saturday nights, smart-but-casual couples and family groups, probably mainly locals and regulars, and in the 35-60 age bracket, dominate. All is merry, laid back chatter as waiters weave to and fro. The staff are unusually friendly yet super efficient and well informed. Nothing is too much trouble: reading glasses are instantly conjured up for a diner who has forgotten to bring his own, for example.

The Food
Philpotts Mezzaluna pursues a simple pricing policy: from a daily-changing four course menu, pick any two courses for £23, three for £28 or four (and you’d need to be an outstanding trencherman to consider this option!) for £33. A delicious complimentary selection of both toasted and warm breads with olive oil and a pesto-like dip sets the scene. From eight starters, seared scallops with cauliflower puree and garlic and raisin salsa is a fair indication of what’s to come: dishes that are big, well-executed, and just innovative enough not to scare the cautious. There are five plump, crusted, tender scallops where three would have done, the puree is smooth and subtle, the salsa unusual and piquant.

The second menu section features three pastas plus a parmesan and spinach souffle. The latter arrives bubbling fiercely at the table. Despite appearing dauntingly large, it’s light, the flavour of spinach successfully cutting through a surrounding creamy, cheesy sauce. The crusty parmesan top is truly to die for. There are eight mains, five featuring meat and three fish, so vegetarians would have to settle for that souffle or one of the pastas. Stinco of lamb turns out to be the Italian version of slow-cooked shank, and the meat falls off the bone just as it should. The chickpeas in the flavoursome, rosemary gravy could be a bit firmer but, otherwise, this is a deeply satisfying dish. A perfectly-cooked fillet of halibut is lifted by its delicious pistachio crust. With its creamy sauce, silky mash and roast artichokes, the dish manages to be simultaneously smart and comforting.

Onto the puds, of which there are five plus cheese. Chocolate fondant is a well-made little sponge with deep chocolate flavour, although a higher proportion of runny middle wouldn’t have gone amiss. It is surrounded by a caramel sauce but some diners might feel a ball of vanilla, or maybe coffee, ice cream on top might work better than the proffered apricot sorbet. Elsewhere, iced Marsala parfait has that unmistakeable parfait texture and a subtle but luxurious flavour.

The Drink
The Italian-heavy wine list features 78 reds, 44 whites and three roses starting at £14 for a 2005/6 Garnacha X Campo de Borjas or Borgo Selene, Tonino, and stopping at £150 for a 1997 Barolo Cannubi, E Pira. There’s plenty by the half bottle but very little by the glass. There are sparklers from £20 to £50, water is £2.25 per half litre (no litre bottles, alas), and a full range of soft drinks, spirits, vermouths, fortified wines and beer. Dessert wine appears to be something of a house speciality: no fewer than 16 are offered by the 125ml glass, starting at a very modest £3 for a Moscatel de Valencia and rising to several £10 options including a 2005 Moscato di Noto Planeta from Sicily and, intriguingly, a 2000/1 Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyas from Hungary.

The Last Word
David Philpott and his team have been packing in the respectable folk of this part of North West London since the start of the millennium and it isn’t hard to see why. Though a meal here isn’t quite a steal (expect to pay £45 for three courses, half a bottle of wine and water), the big platefuls of quality food, ambience and service add up to good value. Perhaps, more than anything, what keeps the customers coming back is the sense that this operation is run not only with skill and experience, but with love, care and passion, like its equivalents in Rome, Florence or Milan.

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