In the City diners know a thing or two about good food, and keeping them happy isn’t easy. However, Piccolino seems just about up to the job, offering a sophisticated high-end Italian menu, with some hits and some misses, along with a superb wine list and a pleasant atmosphere.

The Venue
This venue caters for the City crowd, and you can see it in the decor. As you walk through the area, Exchange Square more resembles a film set than a financial centre, and Piccolino benefits from this atmosphere, nestled at ground level beneath the towering office blocks. The decor inside is smart and sophisticated, with a bustling bar area at the front, coldly illuminated with Miami Vice-style neon blue and pink lighting (why do all City bars think is smart?). Further in you reach the restaurant, which by comparison is intimately lit and spacious, with high ceilings, black marbled work tops and red leather wall seating. This restaurant has a classy edge which it wears on its sleeve, evident in the huge wine refrigerator that takes up an entire wall at the back, allowing you to peruse the large selection of quality plonk on offer.

The Atmosphere
On a weeknight, the bar area seems to be far busier than the restaurant, a feeling exacerbated by the cavernous nature of the venue. Still there’s a pleasant vibe, with attentive friendly waiters who knew their stuff about food and wine. They’re happy to make recommendations and answer questions about the menu, which was really appreciated.

The Food
The menu is Italian through and through, but there’s enough here to tempt you if you’re bored with pizza and pasta. The bread, baked on site, is nice enough, and served with a side of extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, a tried-and-tested combination that never gets dull. For starters, ribbolita (£4.50), a Tuscan bean and cabbage soup, is delicious, with a good balance of flavours allowing the beans to come through without overpowering the palate. The freshly grated parmesan on top is an added bonus. Carpaccio (£7.95), an Italian classic, is pulled off confidently, the beef sliced to wafer-thin perfection and full of smoky flavour. There’s just enough rocket and parmesan, plus lovely light dressing, to complement the delicate meat.

The mains are a mixed bag. Aragosta intera (£25), a whole 1.25lb lobster, tastes a tad overcooked but moreish. It comes on a bed of saffron risotto which is creamy and packed with juicy mussels and calamari. The anatra arrosto (£13.95) unfortunately isn’t as satisfying. The apples and wine sauce set against the crispy duck has a traditional English note, the sweet and savoury mix enticing at the start of the dish, but overpowering by the end. The side of sea-salted new potatoes is perfectly reasonable, however, and goes well with the dish.

For dessert, choice was good. The homemade gelati (£4.50) is delicious, the blackcurrant sorbet succulently juicy and the amaretto ice cream effusing almond flavours. Vin Santo con Cantuccini (£2.95), a tangy sweet Italian dessert wine served with Cantucci biscotti, is a real treat. The almondy Cantuccini biscuits dipped into the fruity sharp wine really tickled the taste buds. Finally, the dolci con amici (£11.95), a shared dessert plate, gave a good cross representation of classic Italian dolci, some of which fair better than others. The tiramisu is nothing to write home about, with a nice creamy topping but not enough Marsala wine in the base. However, the chocolate and amoretti mousse is great, with a light and fluffy texture and a really well judged chocolatey flavour. The warm chocolate pudding is simply too heavy after the mains and the limoncello cheesecake, while thick and creamy, is not particularly distinct. After that much food, the espresso to finish was a godsend!

The Drink
Piccolino does wine well. Their Prosecco di Valdobbiadene (£5.75 a glass), a light and fruity Italian champagne, is a fantastic way to kick things off. They also have some great Rose, the Bardolino Chiaretto (£20 a bottle) a smooth tipple full of flowery notes. The reds don’t disappoint, with the Montepuciano d’Abruzzo Ancora (£17.50) smooth and satisfying, and the velvety Amarone Classico (£47) to die for. Grecanico Roccamora (£13.95) the house white was thoroughly acceptable for the price, while Soave Classico (£37 a bottle) is a good bet if you want to splash out.

The Last Word
Piccolino’s staff seem used to dealing with high expectations, and you really feel looked after here. With a mix of the usual pasta and pizza, and more high end dishes, the menu has something for most tastes and budgets, and while some of the dishes don’t live up to their price, there are no huge let downs. The addition of a redeeming wine list and a pleasant, sophisticated decor makes for a really enjoyable night out.

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