3-6 Steward Street,
Spitalfields,
London,
E1 6AL
(020) 7422 7650
The ViewLondon Review
Ping Pong is rapidly expanding, and judging by the crowd at their latest location, reasonably priced dim sum and cocktails are just what Spitalfields has been waiting for.
The Venue
Ping Pong’s latest branch in Spitalfields brings the chain’s grand total to a dozen venues across the capital. This location has a similar decor to the others, simple and modern, but not stark, with geometric Asian-style patterns decorating the bar and the doors. Tables are made of dark wood and come in a variety of sizes, perfect for everyone from single diners to large groups. There are two floors, with a bar, lounge and small dining area upstairs and more tables in the basement, which also houses an open kitchen where you can watch the chefs whizzing through the dim sum making process. Apart from the long paper lamps decorated with Chinese characters that hang over the staircase, it would be easy to mistake this branch for any of their other locations, but Ping Pong is clearly not going to mess with a tried and tested formula. Also similar to its other locations, this Ping Pong operates a non-booking policy unless you're booking a table for more than eight people.
The Atmosphere
Located off Brushfield Street near Liverpool Street station, Ping Pong is in an area rife with bars that do a brisk post-work trade. Restaurants don’t seem to fare as well after the lunch rush, but Ping Pong is packed with everyone from bankers in loosened ties to glamorous Shoreditch types. Although some areas can be a bit noisy, the lounge area is spacier and lends itself to more intimate conversations. As with the other restaurants, food appears as it’s made, so it’s best to dig straight in rather than wait for it all to pile up and go cold.
The Food
With dim sum priced between £3 and £5.50, it’s easy to end up with your hunger more than satisfied and your wallet still reasonably full. Seven different set menus are also available from about £5 to £14 and cater to everyone from vegetarians to seafood lovers to those who want healthier options. The regular menu is divided up into different sections, from pre-dim sum nibbles to soups, salads, specialties, sides and of course, dumplings.
Wasabi peanuts are a great start, peanuts coated in a pale green, slightly smoky wasabi shell. The pork puff is baked, with the pastry sweet and glazed and peeling off in thin layers. From the fried section, the Vietnamese spring rolls have a great texture, lightly battered but not too crispy, whilst the crispy prawn balls instead are just that, with a tangled nest of fried pastry encasing a ball of chopped prawns with a shallow bowl of tangy sweet and sour sauce on the side. Vegetable buns are huge, fluffy and doughy, and like their sibling char sui buns come with a savoury sauce inside, only these are filled with vegetables instead of pork.
From the list of the more classic steamed dumplings, the crescent shaped coriander and prawn dumpling has an almost sticky texture to the pastry, whilst the rounder spicy vegetable dumplings aren’t quite as spicy as you’d expect, but they’re packed with crispy minced vegetables. More disappointing is the chicken and cashew nut dumpling, which is dry and chalky, with a hard, chewy pastry. Squid in satay sauce, a signature dish, is not one of their strongest – although the squid has a nice, firm texture, it looks like it’s sitting in a bowl of oily water instead of the creamy peanut sauce that you might have anticipated.
Puddings include Valrhona chocolate buns, mini versions of the vegetable and char sui buns that are filled with rich, dark chocolate. Watch how you eat these, as the chocolate tends to burst out if you bit into them too enthusiastically. A trio of ice creams and sorbets include a creamy vanilla, icy blackcurrant and chilli chocolate, which kicks in with hot chilli flavour a few seconds after you’ve eaten some.
The Drink
Ping Pong is becoming more and more well known for their quality cocktails, nearly all of which come in under £6 - certainly a bargain considering the location, not to mention the large size of most of the drinks. Raspberry and Bourbon is a deep pink drink with a lovely taste of ripe berries, whilst the Vanilla, Lemon and Vodka has an intense flavour – you can really taste the alcohol. The Gold Cinnamon Daiquiri, served in a Martini glass, is a shimmery golden colour and is a strong mix of Goldschlager and rum. The Kumquat Mojito is flavoured with kumquat in addition to the traditional lime, mint and rum, and the tall drink is packed with dark green mint leaves and chunks of citrusy kumquat.
There are only a few types of wine on offer but they’re well priced from about £14 a bottle and under £4 a glass. Champagne is about £40 a bottle and there are a few spirits on offer as well chilled plum wine and hot sake. Fruit juices and non-alcoholic cocktails are about £3, whilst teas (including flowering varieties) range from £1 to £2.
The Last Word
Ping Pong’s consistent approach to dim sum and drinks make this venue a great addition to Spitalfields. Although some dishes don’t quite live up to the others, overall it’s a good spot for some drinks and a bit of food as well as a full blown dim sum feast.
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