194 Bermondsey Street,
Bermondsey,
London,
SE1 3TQ
The ViewLondon Review
José Pizarro is one of a number of chefs flying the Spanish flag in London, harnessing the increasing appreciation of just how good this cuisine can be. Offering authentic dishes with a big focus on bold flavours and sharing, Pizzaro carries on where José, his excellent sherry and tapas bar, left off.
The Venue
Pizarro is located a hop, skip and a jump away from this highly regarded Spanish chef's first foray into the London restaurant scene - the equally eponymous, José. And although this is a more formal eatery, it still sticks to the laid back style of Spanish cuisine.
Upon entering you’re thrust into a busy, hectic space with a bar area set just around the corner from an open kitchen facing the main – and certainly not large – dining space. This dining space is filled with long benches where you’ll be positioned elbow-to-elbow with your neighbours; though there is booth seating around the corner for larger groups, as well as a long table nestled right against the huge window for people watching. In terms of the décor, it’s simple yet sophisticated, with wood paneling everywhere the eye can see, creating a warm, homely aesthetic. This is the kind of place you can settle into for the evening and not even notice that four hours have passed – much to the chagrin of the huge queue of people waiting to be seated, no doubt.
The Atmosphere
Pizarro is loud, busy and thriving. You could be forgiven for thinking that you’ve suddenly descended into chaos, but this is the very epitome of organised chaos. People hang out in the bar area sipping on cava while the waiting staff and hosts seem to have an almost inhuman ability to stay on top of everything. And this is fun dining at its very best. People good naturedly shift aside to allow you to squeeze into your seat and everyone seems, well, happy. And when you try the food you’ll soon see why.
The Food
Pizarro’s menu changes regularly but there’s always a focus on bold dishes with strong flavours. The prices are very fair, starting at £5.50-£7.50 for small plates (which you can enjoy as starters), rising to £12-£16 for larger plates (or main courses).
To start, the Jerusalem artichoke soup (£5.50) perfectly showcases the kind of balancing of flavours that the kitchen does with aplomb. The rich, creamy soup is also very delicate with an underlying, earthy hit of truffle oil. Crispy ham atop brings a saltiness to the dish that doesn’t overpower the soup, instead enhancing what's an exploration into some impressive flavour combinations. The quail (£6) is incredible value for what is usually an expensive choice; it's perfectly cooked, moist and rich, with a joyous gamey undertone that lingers on the tongue. The squid (£7) is another one to try thanks to yet more brilliant handling in the kitchen.
The consistent quality of the dishes continues into the large plates. The secreto iberico (£15.50) is sublime, with chunks of delicate, perfectly cooked ham working incredibly well with the creamy mashed potato that's tempered by a slight olive tang. The lamb (£14.50) is equally delicious, cooked perfectly until it’s pink and tender with a rich, sweetness that combines beautifully with the al dente lentils. If you have room then try the chocolate, toast and caramel ice cream (£6). It looks beautiful and tastes even better with a decadent, sweet, richness that will keep you wanting more.
The Drink
The best thing about the wine menu is their dogged dedication to showcasing Spanish produce - it's an entirely Spanish selection on offer. In fact, they haven’t even wavered when offering champagne, with a huge selection of cava available instead.
available by the glass – further highlighting the fact that this is no snobbish dining experience. At Pizarro you can sample what you want, how you
Then there’s the fact that almost every bottle on the menu is want it. If you’re struggling to make your mind up then opt for the Cillar de Silos Tempranillo, Rioja (£45); it's a delicious drop that matches much of the dishes impeccably.
The Last Word
Pizarro gets it all pretty much spot on, showcasing everything that's good about this great culinary nation. Pizarro follows up on José superbly, and is easily one of the most exciting restaurant openings of 2011.
Pizarro has been reviewed by 5 users