The Strand setting does what it says on the tin - super-chain pizza at speed.

The Venue
Minutes from Charing Cross Station, the venue of this branch is what puts it close to the top of the Pizza Express tree. Weather permitting there are tables outside or a bright street level dining room as you walk in. Better still, wind your way down the spiral staircase to the main sub-level seating, where waiting on one of the comfy sofas for a table is far from a chore. Watch the chefs work in the open kitchen from a hot seat next to the pizza oven, or a cooler vantage point a step up from the action.

The Atmosphere
Wherever you sit you’ll be swept up in the friendly Italian bustle. The tables are packed into the underground space without feeling too close for comfort, instead enhancing the surrounding activity. Staff are plentiful, service is swift and as you are probably familiar with the menu (or could guess the standard pizza/pasta vibe) it all makes for an easy eating out experience.

The Food
Old reliables, favourites and un-intimidating classics at reasonable prices (all mains are under £10) do not disappoint. The garlic dough balls are still soft, hot, mouthfuls of buttery pleasure. The American pizza is still loaded with strong, simple pepperoni. The cannelloni is still stuffed with spinach, and the creamiest ricotta and bechamel are satisfying enough to go vegetarian for. Even the salads come with dough-sticks on the side, as well as dressing, so you can enjoy a marginally more virtuous choice without feeling shortchanged or regretting it when the rest of the table’s order arrives.

But there are an increasing number of options to tempt you away from the expertly well-kneaded dough. The new Romano base is crisp and wafer thin, showcasing more exciting combinations of toppings. Brown shrimps, fontal cheese, smoked peppers and Theo Randall - they haven’t gone crazy but playful elements are creeping in successfully. Desserts now boast an array of gelato, the pistachio and coffee are refreshingly authentic. Portions of cheesecake and banoffee pie deliver as expected, nothing new and happily nothing nouvelle about the cuisine. The chocolate glory is the only thing which falls short, literally. The tall sundae glass has morphed into a plate, possibly the worst vessel for a pile of ice-cream and brownie. The key fun of delving into a towering mess is lost, instead it’s simply a messy puddle.

The Drink
The wine pointers on the menu don’t give much away - crisp, fruity, full bodied, soft - no ‘house wine’ failsafe but all are pretty safe options in themselves. The waiters prove helpful if you are flailing. A bottle of Peroni seems to keep the boys happy and the Sicilian lemonade and Appletiser are always nice to see on a soft drinks menu.

The Last Word
You’ll be sold on the setting even if you’re not a loyal Pizza Express lover.

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