The Dickens Inn,
St Katharine's Way,
Wapping,
London,
E1W 1UH
(020) 7488 2208
The ViewLondon Review
Cosily tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the city and offering homely comfort and excellent value for money in luxurious surroundings, this singular establishment is a veritable crowd pleaser for young and large families.
The Venue
Set in the stunning backdrop of St. Katharine’s Dock, amidst the glamorous yachts, glistening marina and cobbled courtyard, the Dickens Inn is a literal stone’s throw away from Tower Bridge.
Restored and styled as a 19th-century two-storey inn, the establishment is split up into three floors with a small beer garden and two balconies eagerly awaiting summer custom. The impressive timber-framed building oozes conviviality and charm. Wander upstairs and be immediately greeted by European redwood beams and maritime paraphernalia adorning the walls. Inside, you’ll find exposed brickwork, cosy lighting, wood floors and quirky old-fashioned signs nailed to pillars.
The Atmosphere
Open day and night, the restaurant has a healthy stream of customers and gets busy in the evenings, although booking isn’t essential. Service is friendly and delivery is extremely swift. Popular with tourists in the know and visitors moored in the marina, the restaurant proves a major draw for families young and old. There’s not a screaming baby in earshot however, merely the comforting purr of contented customers.
The Food
With the downstairs Tavern dishing up self-confessed hearty pub fare and Grill on the Dock offering an a la carte menu for the more discerning diner, Pizza on the Dock comforts its customers with a simple pizza, pasta and salad menu.
Starters range from £4 - £7 and you can expect all the usual favourites from an Anglicised Italian menu. Chilli roasted squid offers a nice departure from the customary deep-fried calamari rings but a few insipid pieces of squid arrive on an enormous mound of undressed rocket and a couple of sorry looking roasted cherry tomatoes. Despite its unappetising exterior the squid is actually well seasoned, if slightly on the wrong side of chewy, and carries a subtle kick of chilli that almost makes it worthwhile. £6.50 is a little rich, however, for what essentially is a plate of plain leaves.
Pasta mains come in either side of £10 and, rather than being child-friendly, seem designed to cater for adults who fancy a few twists on classics. The lasagne with spicy meat Tolona sauce is topped with roasted aubergine and glazed mozzarella – the oiliness of the aubergine and the stickiness of the mozzarella really bind the dish together and elevate it beyond high street fare. A substantial sized portion and a rich sauce - this is solid comfort food. One false note is the excessive use of cumin that threatens to overpower the dish.
Pizza is obviously the main attraction and rightly so as for a large family you’d be hard pressed to find better value for money. A variety of pizzas are on offer in four sizes from mini (for one) at around £8 - £10, to The Beast (for six or more) for between £30 and £37. Particularly for large families or groups, The Beast is perfect for eight or nine. Not only will they be more than satisfied but the sheer size of the pizza is pure theatre and guaranteed a collective “Wow!”
Although this makes for honest and fulfilling eating this is not perhaps a place for pizza purists. The Pollo is topped with well-seasoned chicken, bittersweet pineapple that cuts through the saltiness of the prosciutto, a zingy pesto and… papaya. This breaks down easily and muddies all flavours into a bland, soggy nothingness. Luckily the pesto has just enough legs to maintain at least some flavour. A few token salads are also available at £4 - £5 or with salmon or chicken for £10.
Desserts are all well priced at just under £5, the highlight being the mascarpone and lemon cheesecake – crumbly biscuit, zesty lemon, a few almonds for bite - utterly creamy and utterly moreish. Unfortunately a mountain of canned squirty cream and ice cream van-style raspberry sauce sullies this delectable dessert. This is symptomatic of a common theme whereby one superfluous ingredient is added to the detriment of otherwise really satisfying cooking.
The Drink
There’s a good selection of bottled beers at under £3. The commendably straightforward Italian wine list ensures nobody is priced out, ranging from £12 - £17 - Falanghina and Chianti Reserva topping the list. With only two wines on each side by the glass, the house red is inoffensive, if a little dry, but perfect for group guzzling with food on a cold day and good value at £4.50 for a 250ml glass.
The Last Word
With a substantial, gratifying meal sure to be had and worth coming for the serene surroundings alone, Pizza on the Dock may just be your new family venue of choice.
Pizza on the Dock has been reviewed by 2 users