Set on an unprepossessing Y-junction on the outskirts of Croydon and resembling a suburban family home from the outside, Planet Spice doesn’t initially entice. But appearances are deceiving, and this progressive Indian restaurant takes diners on a bold culinary adventure.

The Venue
The decor is simple and stylish: wooden floors, splashes of abstract art and red, mustard and sage walls with correspondingly coloured banquette seats. Metrosexuals might describe it as chic; blokes and homebodies could think it’s a bit bleak. For all its unfussy decor, two standards of European Indian restaurants remain firmly in place – crisp white tablecloths (as ever: why, with the messiest, oiliest cuisine known to man?) and comfortably upholstered chairs.

The Atmosphere
Forget the Surrey set, this place is aimed at the far more casual Croydon crowd (and occasional lost Londoner). Since opening a decade ago, Planet Spice has built up a loyal following. Due to its off-the-beaten-track location there’s little passing trade, but despite a few empty tables there’s a genial buzz in the air. Staff are courteous and efficient, ready and able to guide diners through the menu without any prompting and happy to make recommendations.

The Food
You won’t find bog-standard baltis at Planet Spice. There are two menus to choose from: a frequently changing main menu of diverse dishes which is also used to celebrate one of the regular food festivals staged here, and a classics menu. At Planet Spice you can sit down to tandoor-grilled ostrich steaks or chicken tikka masala. Starters, priced from about £4 to £7, include a garlicky chicken breast spiked with spicy yoghurt. It’s a light and fragrant dish, with the zesty yoghurt giving the morsels of meat an almost peach-like succulence.

A main of roasted duck breast enveloped in sweet-and-sour tamarind sauce is a success, the sharp sauce negating the natural oiliness of the duck and giving it a deliciously squelchy texture. Mains are between £7 and £12, with the exception of rack of lamb marinated in chilli and yoghurt and served with pumpkin mash, which comes in at £15. For vegetarians, however, the pickings are slim. Just a few of the starters and mains are meat-free, and the main vegetarian dish of stir fried vegetables with garlic and cumin sounds more like a side order. A vegetarian thali can be ordered from the takeaway menu, which also offers a couple more non-meat starters, but why these can’t feature on the main menu is not clear.

There’s an eclectic range of side orders and sundries ranging in price from about £2 to £4. A dhal of black lentils cooked overnight and finished with cream and tomatoes is soothingly silky. A spicier dish of red pumpkin sauteed with onion seeds is infused with a subtle liquorice tang thanks to the addition of fennel. Puddings are of the refreshing kulfi/sorbet/ice cream variety.

The Drink
The fulsome wine list has been compiled by Master of Wine Peter McCombie, whose past clients include Villandry and upmarket Indian eatery The Cinnamon Club. Wines range from subtle to the point of blandness to harmonise with spicier dishes, such as the fruity German Franconia to strident, robust reds which clamour to be heard above the food, such as a Morgante Nero d'Avola. The cocktail list covers the basics but not a lot else, offering just three alcoholic and one non-alcoholic choices. The spicy Mojito is a singularly sugary sensation of cardamom-infused Bacardi and homemade vanilla syrup and lime topped with Champagne.

The Last Word
Those who surrender to the more audacious dishes on the Planet Spice menu will enjoy a boldly flavoursome culinary journey. Those who stick to the classics will enjoy nothing less than an impeccably cooked and graciously served meal.

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