88 St John Street,
Farringdon,
London,
EC1M 4EH
0871 971 7458
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.
The ViewLondon Review
Heavily influenced by Portugal, Portal restaurant is a lovely little spot nestled in the foodie heartland of Clerkenwell. Already enjoying a respectable following, the Portuguese bistro is sure to continue winning more as word spreads of its flawless service, impressive drinks list and successfully inventive menu.
The Venue
Sophisticated and elegant, Portal is separated into two areas; the bar for those popping by for a glass of wine or a cocktail and some tapas, and an impressive restaurant area for those after something a bit more substantial. The pièce de résistance of the venue is the gorgeous conservatory-type dining area at the back, boasting exposed brickwork, spacious tables and comfortable chairs. The main focus, however, is what lies behind the huge walls of window; plants, trees and gorgeous views make diners feel as if they are dining al fresco.
The Atmosphere
Portal has a warm ambiance and well-paced service, with attentive and knowledgable staff and waiters always on hand to recommend the best drink to go with each dish. The restaurant attracts wealthy customers thanks to its quality and abundant alcohol selection, but it does have the tendency to attract flash City boys who can get a little rowdy after a few too many.
The Food
Under the direction of new head chef Jeronimo Abreu, who trained at Ecole Superieur de Cuisine Francaise Ferrandi in Paris, Portal offers authentic Portuguese dishes with a distinctive style. Forward thinking and bold with its menu choices, the restaurant mixes flavours and textures that complement each other perfectly.
One of the restaurant’s specialities is the pre-starter, which comes in the form of pata negra; a brilliantly flavoured cured ham served in 50, 80 and 120 gram portions, setting you back £17, £27 and £34 respectively. Although dear, the dish is well worth the price if you’re willing to splash out on an occasion. 50g is more than enough for two, and is served with an endless flow of poppy, olive, white and brown breads.
The next course is more reasonably priced, with dishes ranging between £7 and £14 pounds for a starter (still pricey but incredibly good quality). The sesame-glazed chicken and goat's cheese mousse is divine, the sticky sweetness of the balsamic glaze complemented by the rich yet light fromage. The confit quail with carrot, rustic bread and mixed leaves is gamey and flavoursome, and garnished beautifully with a little pansy. Other starters include caldo verde soup with Iberian chorizo; crab and mussel spicy soup with coriander; and confit sardine maki rolls with mixed herbs and wasabi.
The main courses are split into vegetarian, fish and meat sections, and once again do not disappoint. The stuffed duck roll with chestnuts, olives and chanterelle mushrooms is unusual, but mild enough to be complemented by the intensely flavoured orange risotto, which combines just the right amount of sweetness, tang and texture to bring the dish together beautifully. The braised bisaro with green asparagus and chorizo acorda is less adventurous but similarly delicious, with a crab and prawn linguine with seafood bisque, and a sauteed seabass fillet with razor clam tartar and chive mashed potatoes also coming highly recommended. Mains come in at between £18 and £24, and can be served with sides such as esparregado (made with turnip leaves), which is an unusual yet delicious accompaniment too many of the dishes.
The innovative cooking continues into the dessert menu. Ambitious attempts to twist conventional dishes prove successful, with the blueberry tiramisu with vanilla foam and pistachio crumbs blending subtle flavours with a tart, fruity sharpness and caffeine hit to create a delicious treat at the end of the meal. Coconut crème brulee with apple and strawberry mille feuille is another favourite, though one of the Portal specialities is the cream and cinnamon tart, which is delightfully creamy and light. From just £5, these are a steal, but the £14 cheese board too looks very tempting indeed.
The Drink
An oenophile's dream, Portal has an abundance of wines that would impress any buff; it’s clear that the list has been painstakingly sourced and compiled with a huge amount of care and attention. Amongst the impressive selection, the Terras do Demos Rose is a delicious option, though there are plenty of others that will be recommended with each dish, with bottles starting at a pretty reasonable £22. The famous white port is certainly not one to miss either - enjoy it as an aperitif, as they do back in Portugal. For between £7 and £9 there is also an array of decent cocktails available. From Pear Cosmopolitans and Spicy Apple Daiquiris for the ladies, to Whiskey Sours and a Red Snapper Portal for those with more masculine tastes, there’s something to suit pretty much everyone.
The Last Word
This wonderful restaurant certainly does Portugal proud, carrying out bold menu choices with flair, style and taste that are rarely so effective. Combining a fascinating menu with great presentation and some very good wines makes this place one of London's very best spots. Recommended.
Portal Restaurant and Bar has been reviewed by 7 users