The restaurant name translates well into stylish, standard Italian at a buon prezzo.

The Venue
Seconds from Victoria Station, you can sit and watch the commuters swarming around the South London transport portal as you eat. It’s a good quick fix for a pre-theatre bite, too. The simple silver on blue sign and glass fronted facade is a chic draw, giving view to an interior classier than the rival Pizza Express opposite.

The Atmosphere
Space between tables and low lights give the restaurant a relaxed feel, secluded enough for couples or a laid-back meeting with friends. Nothing offends. But equally nothing really stands out as extra special. The waiters offer a swift and friendly service, most seem reassuringly Italian – recommending the pasta over other dishes representing their obvious choice from home.

The Food
One of the chain’s Calzone restaurants (as opposed to Roast Chicken restaurants) the menu is packed with freshly baked dough from start to finish. The starter or sharer Pane con Cipolla (£4.95) is soft, warm and easily torn, however the caramelised balsamic onions collect in oversweet clumps. A simple side of garlic bread might be better. The crab cakes (about £10) is a perfect portion with a healthy bowl of side salad if you opt out of house fries, making it a satisfying alternative, although the flavour falls down with an over-fried crust.

Whilst the list of pasta seems vast, each dish is made up of a few carefully matched components. Fusilli all Rusticana (£8.95) achieves tasty simplicity with chicken, pancetta and roasted pepper – uncomplicated and well-cooked. The combination that doesn’t work however is hot pasta and cold plate, resulting in a lukewarm meal rather than one which steams to the table. The pizzas look loaded with toppings to entice eaters out to experiment, as well as those who are happy to stay safe. Or for a lighter Insalate, the Salmone e Avocado (£8.95) is delicately smoky with a good mix of semi-dried and fresh tomato, all cut with a tart lime dressing. The thought and effort comes together into more than just a plate of leaves.

The Drink
Crisp Pinot Grigio, white or rose, is dry and sharp enough to suit the punchy Italian food. Wine includes a few of other bottles from the country on the list; also Birra Moretti beer, and of course Prosecco. There’s a good liqueur and spirit selection too, and the espresso doesn’t disappoint – make it a double (£1.95) if you’ve worked your way through all of the above!

The Last Word
The classic combinations of ingredients are more inventive than your average Italian, but overall without a defining wow factor.

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