Milanese chain Princi’s London branch is the latest venture from Alan Yau, of wagamama and Hakkasan fame, bringing an upmarket late-night bakery experience to Soho.

The Venue
Located mid-way down Wardour Street, Princi’s proximity to Soho, West End theatres and Oxford Street makes it a perfect stop-off for a quick lunch, coffee and cake, or an easy evening snack. The huge windows show off the oven and bakery area, and once inside, the scent of fresh bread, ham and, rather strangely, a waft of incense hits you immediately. The decor is mainly beige with a glass serving counter along one side and long metallic tables. It’s undeniably sleek, with its stone and wood walls, full-length water feature, and watchful waiters who look more like bouncers in their dark suits.

The Atmosphere
For all its shiny slickness, Princi has a laid-back, informal cafe atmosphere. Diners don’t stay long, but there’s no sense of rush in the evenings. The idea is to choose your food at the counter and pay the server at the till area (which can get crowded) before picking up drinks at the bar. There is usually a queue, but the staff are friendly and knowledgeable, and there are plenty of samples to try while you wait.

The Food
As well as croissants, buns, cakes and breads, there are pizzas, salads, cured meats and ready-made hot dishes such as lasagne on offer too. Presentation is neat and simple, with everything served in little boxes.

The pizzas are priced around £2.50 a slice. They’re doughy but light; toppings include cooked ham and moist mushrooms, with a rich tomato sauce and plenty of melting cheese. Portions are decent-sized, too. From the salad counter, where prices range from £4.50 - £7.50 a serving, the caponata is rich, sweet and tangy, with smooth aubergine and piqued with spices. Mozzarella salad is served with huge hunks of cheese, tomato and fresh rocket; the cured ham and salami are both top quality, with a fine texture and full, meaty flavour.

The cake selection includes tarts, cheesecakes, eclairs and patisserie from 50p for chocolate chip biscuits to slices of cake from £3 to £4.50. A neat shiny square of pistachio cheesecake has a gelatinous texture, with a thin sour coating of purple berry jelly on top of the nutty, creamy green pistachio and white chocolate mixture, and a white, barely-there sliver of sponge at the bottom. The milk bread rolls, topped with sugar, are golden-brown and crisp on the outside, and deliciously light, fluffy, buttery and fresh inside.

The Drink
A selection of wines (from £3.30 a glass and £15 a bottle) beers (£3.50 a bottle) and Italian spirits are available, as well a list of 16 different cocktails, including classics like bellinis along with the cafe’s signature drinks. Coffee, tea and soft drinks are also on offer. Tap water has to be requested at the bar, which if you’re thirsty seems like a bit of a joke considering the water feature consists of running taps.

The Last Word
Princi is convenient, elegant and perfect for any time of day. The food is fresh, flavoursome, and fast, making it an equally good place for a morning coffee and pastry or a weekday lunch. Best of all, it’s open till midnight six nights a week, making it ideal for post-bar snacking, and Princi’s high-quality baked goods certainly beat most other food served in a paper box.

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