122 Balls Pond Road,
Islington,
London,
N1 4AE
The ViewLondon Review
Exotic Puji Puji offers traditional Malaysian cuisine in an appealing, intimate environment.
The Venue
Puji Puji successfully avoids the stereotype of many independent Oriental restaurants, being neither too threadbare in decor nor too tacky or opulent. On the contrary, the venue gets the perfect balance between simple and personal. Three long, thin panels of golden fabric decorate one wall, gold dipped vessels in exotic shapes are placed inconspicuously on a shelf and a contemporary wooden sculpture of the Petronas Towers – for once discreet and actually interesting – adorns another wall.
The rest of the space looks fresh in its simplicity. The immaculate white walls are framed by red doors, streamlined lamps and shelves. A vintage ice shaver from Malaysia sits on the solid, thick wood counter, with bark and veins left well in evidence. The door frame achieves the same effect with a cast of a real tree, while the nature inspiration carries on in the back, with two wall murals rich in plants and flowers. A family crest in papier-mache and a painting of satay skewers make a colourful addition to the space. Combined with the furniture, wooden chairs and tables and straw mats in place of tablecloths, the effect is simple, fresh and effective.
The Atmosphere
Very busy during the weekend, Puji Puji is an intimate and quiet affair during the week. The tables are well spaced and it seems like an ideal place for a quiet dinner with your loved one. The clientele is mostly local to the area, although expect to see Malaysian customers dropping in from other parts of town. The Dalstonian regulars are mostly British with a strong number of Australians joining in, looking for authentic Malaysian flavours.
The Food
True to Malaysia’s best traditions, the specialty of Puji Puji is satay (£4.80 – £12.50), skewers of meat, seafood or vegetables, marinated in spices and herbs and cooked on a charcoal grill. The venison has an intense flavour and chicken is the best suited to the delicious, spicy sweet peanut sauce that comes with it, whilst the vegetables are delicate and show off the char grilling best. The skewers come served with rice cakes, soft, cold bundles that bear no resemblance to rice, having been cooked for four hours. They do not have a distinctive taste of their own, but they are ideal to scoop up the last remaining bits of sauce. The roti canai (£4) is another interesting starter. More of a cultural experience than a culinary moment of revelation, these Malaysian pancakes are oily and flaky, served with a nutty, blended curry sauce.
The mains (£6 - £8.50) showcase the best of Puji Puji, good presentation on large square white plates, with great flavours and generous portions. The masak lemak labu dan is a rich curry made of pumpkin cooked in coconut gravy, spice and herbs. Sweet, rich and comforting, the pumpkin works very well with the coconut gravy and it acts as a well balanced contrast to the roasted sweet and sour aubergine that comes with it. The tofu sambat terung bercili, instead, is a large slab of fried tofu stuffed with very spicy chilli aubergine. The tofu is slightly greasy but the dish compensates by being filled with flavour, miles away from the blandness that usually comes with tofu dishes. It’s finished off by a cooling vegetable soup and a generous mountain of rice drizzled with fried onions. Other options include beef cooked in onions and chilli served with mixed vegetable curry, spiced grilled chicken with scented rice and carrot and cucumber vinaigrette and more. The distinguishing feature of them all is the good balance between strong, spicy flavours and sweeter, plainer elements of the dish, leaving your taste buds excited but not overwhelmed.
The desserts are worth saving some room for, since they are the most surprising part of the meal. The pengat labu dengan sago is boiled pumpkin in a coconut milk broth sweetened with palm sugar with added sago pearls (small translucent spheres which may remind you of gelatine but are actually made from plants). This seems the perfect remedy to a cold as it’s sweet, hot, comforting and healthy, with a delicate taste. The pisang sura dengan gula melaka dan kulit kayu manis (surely the longest name for a dessert ever recorded) is a Malaysian version of banana split. The cooked banana is glazed with palm sugar and a pinch of cinnamon and it’s served swimming into its thick, super sweet, dark sauce. The added ice cream on top and the tall serving glass seem to be a nod to the West but it’s as traditional a dish as the rest.
The Drink
In this department, Puji Puji stays true to its Malaysian roots and does not sell alcohol. You can get your own less than a minute away (there’s no corkage fee) or you can opt for fresh fruit juice, soft drinks or the water the staff will graciously put on your table.
The Last Word
With its cheap prices, rich portions and strong flavours along with its pleasant decor and intimate atmosphere, Puji Puji unites the best of both worlds.
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